Cream of Celery Soup

Celery is a vegetable I have never particularly cared for.  I will use it as a base for soups & sauces - but there is something about it I always found slightly off-putting.  I know a lot of people who feel this way about tomatoes and I have always said they only feel that way because they have never had a real tomato - one straight off the vine.  I realized this might be part of the reason why I don't like celery - its such a common ingredient we have gotten used to it being in the stores year round but really - like most vegetables - its in season in summer and early autumn. 

So this week at the farmers market I saw fresh locally grown first-harvest celery and I have to say I barely recognized it.  It was a beautiful dark green - lush and leafy and still attached to its bulbous root.  I had to buy it, and decided immediately I would make this soup.  See - I used to hate fennel (or anything remotely resembling anise-flavor) too.  Then, my first (and last) time dining at a Michelin-star restaurant,  I had a Fennel Cream soup and I had a total flavor epiphany.  I think you could literally see the light bulb go on over my head and suddenly I got it.  Now I finally understood the beauty and subtley of that flavor - and all the delicious places it could go (it was the best soup I have ever tasted.  Really.). 

So now when I see a really beautiful ingredient I tend to gravitate toward a really simple cream soup.  This soup is light and fresh tasting and seems perfect for summer (it would be great for a harvest-time meal as well).  The pure celery flavor (which by the way, is not at all the same as when its that white watery stuff we use during the winter) just shines and tastes so fresh and summery.  With the gremolata it is over-the-top delicious - the bright crispiness of the herbs and lemon make such a perfect compliment.    I do realize the irony of a creamy soup recipe directly following my post saying I'm on a diet.  But here's the thing - simply leave out the cream (you can let people stir it into their own bowls if you like) and this is still a rich, satisfying and delicious soup.  The cream just gives it that extra something special.  That being said - about 3 cups (which I would call one main dish serving) of this is only 225 calories (but 24g fat if you are counting).


Cream of Celery Soup with Celery Leaf Gremolata
5 cups finely chopped celery
1 cup chopped celery leaf
2 medium onions, diced
2 cups diced peeled celery root (supplement with potato if your celery root isn't big enough)
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs butter
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
salt & pepper
Olive oil (optional)

Gremolata:
1 Tbs celery leaf, finely chopped
1 Tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 small clove of garlic, finely minced or pressed

Heat butter in a heavy pot over medium heat.  Add celery, celery leaf, and onions.  Stir and cover and cook down until very soft and just barely beginning to caramelize - around 25 minutes.  Stir occasionally.  (This is a good time to make the gremolata)

Add celery root and garlic and stock.  Stir, raise heat and bring just to a boil then cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for around 35 or 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season with salt and pepper.

Turn off the heat and with an immersion blender blend the soup until no lumps remain.  Taste and season as necessary.  You can do this ahead and keep in fridge or freezer.

Stir in the cream and taste and season again if necessary.  Ladle into bowls and drizzle with a nice light & fruity olive oil and top with a spoonful (or to taste) of gremolata. 

Gremolata:  simply combine all the ingredients and mash together in a mortar & pestle or in a small bowl with the back of a spoon. 

Summer Minestrone Soup

I LOVE this time of year - late summer, as the temperatures drop and autumn fast approaches.  Everything is beautifully green in Berlin, there are breezy, sunny days mixed in with gray rainy ones - and the farmers market is still brimming with all that summer harvest.  Its the best of both worlds.   Its also a great time to make soup. 

I am a big fan of soup for a lot of reasons - its usually inexpensive, it freezes well, makes great lunches later on (either for yourself or to put in a thermos for kiddos), and it (usually) doesn't dirty a lot of dishes or require hours and hours of slaving away (in others words, its easy).  Its also the most comforting, soothing thing I can think of - no matter what the season.

For almost my entire life, my only exposure to Minestrone soup, however, had been from those infamous red and white cans.  No disrespect, but that stuff is just plain awful - and as a result I had gone most of my life thinking I hated Minestrone soup.  Oh how wrong I was.  Minestrone, it turns out, its probably one of my favoritist things ever.  It combines some my favorite things (veggies, beans, pasta) into one of my favorite dishes (soup).  Its easily adapted for any season and it makes a hearty, filling and super healthy meal.  This particular Minestrone has skyrocketed to the top of my all-time-favorite soups list - the broth is intensely flavored, earthy from the beans (and their cooking liquid), but also a bit sweet from the leeks and zucchini.  Its a perfect meal for a rainy late August or early September day. 

Summer Minestrone Soup
(adapted from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food)
225g dried beans (like Borlotti or Cannellini - I used a kind that were labeled Marmor beans and that I had honestly never seen before.  They worked wonderfully) - this yields around 675g (3 cups) cooked beans.  
Olive Oil
1 large onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 1/2 tsp dried thyme (or 5 stalks fresh)
1 bay leaf
2 tsp salt
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup water
1 small leek, diced
2 medium Zucchini, diced (roughly 3 cups diced)
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 cup frozen chopped spinach (or of course fresh if you have it - I keep frozen on hand all the time so I prefer not to buy something new)
225ml (1 cup) bean cooking liquid (or more if necessary)
1 or 2 cups cooked pasta (I used an artisan over-sized macaroni to provide a contrast to all the small veggies - I loved it.  However, anything from vermicelli to penne to regular macaroni would taste great). 

First, prepare your beans (this is something I have usually done days before and keep on hand in the fridge or freezer).  It is an important step in this soup however, because much of the amazing, unique flavor from this soup comes from using the bean cooking liquid.

Soak the beans overnight and drain.  Put in a large stockpot or dutch oven with plenty of water (at least a few inches over the level of the beans).  Add a bay leaf and bring to a boil.  Skim off the foam, then reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for 1 to 4 hours depending on your beans (I usually find I need at least 3 hours).  Just taste the beans to know when they are done.  Add salt at the very end and let cook for a few minutes more.  Make sure to let beans cool in their liquid or their skins will peel off (if you are storing them, also store them in their cooking liquid).  Be sure to reserve a few cups of the cooking liquid for use in the soup (though I found the amount I stored the 3 cups of beans in to be just about the right amount).

In a heavy bottomed stock pot or french cast iron pot (my preference for making soup) heat a few Tbs olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion and carrots and cook for 15 minutes or until tender.

Add the minced garlic, thyme, bay leaf and salt.  Stir and cook for another 5 minutes.  Add the chicken or vegetable stock and water, cover,  and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat back to medium, then add the leek and let cook, covered,  for another 5 minutes or so.

Add the zucchini, tomatoes and spinach and cook (again, covered or I found I lost too much of the broth) for 15 minutes.  Add the cooked beans and bean cooking liquid.  Taste and season with salt if necessary.  Cover again and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes.  If the soup is seeming a bit crowded/thick, add more water or bean cooking liquid to your taste (if its the opposite uncover and let simmer for a few minutes to boil-off some of the liquid).  Add the cooked pasta, let cook for just another minute or two and ladle into bowls to serve.  You could garnish with Parmesan cheese or croutons but I found it to be filling and perfect just on its own as well.

Easy Corn Chowder

Phew.  July was harsh, and I have to say - I'm kinda glad its over.  You may have noticed I didn't post the entire month - and it mostly because it was too damned hot to cook.  I mean, it was too hot to even throw together a salad - it was pracitaclly too hot to even eat.  Berlin had record breaking temps for much of July - it was upwards of 98 degrees (hovering around 40 Celsius)  for what felt like, at the time, forever.  I have no air conditioning - and really neither does anyone.  Not the taxi driver, not the bus, not the store, not the doctors office.  There was no escape and I am not gonna lie, it kinda felt like hell.  So, I spent the whole month gnawing on pieces of fruit, drinking large glasses of ice water, and sitting in front of two large fans with ice packs on my face.

Normally I am not such a wimp about the heat - I grew up in Houston, Texas for crying out loud and survived two years of life in Phoenix, Arizona and four months in India with the heat generally not making me want to kill myself.  In fact, I used to kinda like the heat.  It was different this time though, cause I'm pregnant.  Which is another reason I didn't cook a damn thing all month.  Because really, with blinding nausea and an aversion to seemingly all food, all I wanted to eat was cold cereal and peaches with plain yogurt. 

However, sanity has been restored to the universe.  The beautiful Berlin summer is here - blue skies with the occasional rain and temps more around 78 -  and my pregnancy symptoms are starting to fade. So now I can actually enjoy some of the beautiful summer food I have been seeing all over the place - like Corn.  I re-entered the kitchen with a super quick and easy soup (take that heat! soup!) which I had been craving like nobody's business.  Decent fresh corn is not as readily available in Berlin as it is in the States (you can find it, but I couldn't on the day that I decided I must have this soup)...so I had to use canned.  But no matter - you should use fresh sweet corn from the cob and your soup will be all the better for it - but in the meantime know that this is a great recipe that can be made year round with canned or frozen corn as well.   Its cheap and quick and filling and makes a great late summer meal.


Simple Corn Chowder
1 small onion, minced
1 yellow bell pepper, diced
2 medium stalks celery, diced
about 4 cups corn kernels - either fresh, frozen, or canned
2 1/2 cups 1% milk
2 slices bacon (or more if you really feel like it - you could do a slice per serving.  this recipe probably makes 4 to 6 servings depending on how big you make them)
1 1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
sea salt and fresh ground pepper

In a blend, blend half of the corn and 1 cup of the milk until smooth.  Set aside.

In the bottom of a large dutch oven, cook the bacon until crispy.  Remove and set aside.

Add the diced onion, pepper and celery.  Add a bit of salt.   Cook over medium-low heat until the onions are translucent and the veggies are all soft.   Add the rest of the corn and cook for another couple of minutes.

Add the blended corn mixture and the rest of the milk.  Slowly stir in the shredded cheese until all combined.  Taste and add salt and pepper to your taste. 

You can either serve it as is - thick and chunky or you can blend it to your preferred consistency with an immersion blender.  I blended it just a tad once it was all done, but still left it fairly chunky and thought that combined all the flavors really well (especially the celery). 

Crumble the cooked bacon over each bowl and enjoy :)

Rosemary Grilled Chicken with Creamy Mustard Sauce

I love summertime cooking.  I hardly even have to use my kitchen - we cook just about every meal we can on the grill and enjoy it outside in the fresh air and sunshine (easy to do here since it stays light until nearly 11).   I find it so much easier to think of something to eat in the summer when we haven't planned ahead - just grab a little something for the grill, throw together a salad and you have a wonderful meal.  I have so many things like this I make - they are unplanned and certainly not intended for my blog - but I end up liking them so much I snap a couple photos and figure I just have to share it with you anyway. 

Its easy to get stuck in a rut when you grill almost every day.   Its easy just to do the same thing over and over - so I always welcome new fresh ways to marinate or serve what would otherwise be a mundane chicken breast.  For my birthday my mom sent me Cooking Light's Fresh Food Fast cookbook.  It has great photos for every single recipe and almost every recipe has another with it for serving suggestions for a meal.  Its one of those books you could pull out right when you need to make dinner and probably find something that fits the bill.  The problem comes with some of the suggestions they give for saving time in the ingredients - like buying pre-cut vegetables (why? it doesn't take long to dice an onion!) and pre-made seasonings and salad dressings, or processed and pre-seasoned minute rice.  These suggestions often can make the recipe cost three or four times as much - not to mention be less healthy (and I really don't think they save that much time).  Since a lot of the ingredients it suggests are processed items from the US its a moot point for me anyway - they simply don't have them here.  

 
This simple little idea for grilled chicken has become one of our new favorites from the book however, and with just a little adaption has become one of our very favorite meals.  Since I have rosemary growing in my garden the recipe ends up being really cheap, and despite the small amount needed for the marinade it is full of flavor.  Grilled boneless and skinless chicken breasts can often be dry and rubbery - but this certainly does not need to be the case.  Start by placing the breast over the hottest coals, searing both sides for 2 or 3 minutes - then move them to the outer parts of the grill where its not as hot and cover and cook it the rest of the way nice and slow.  You should end up with a perfectly juicy, tender and smoky piece of chicken.  We have one of our many favorite quick salads on the side (look for some of those recipes soon) and it is the perfect little meal to enjoy on a summer evening. 

(PS - I use this mustard sauce all the time on all kinds of stuff.  Its sooo basic but adds so much flavor.)


Rosemary Grilled Chicken with Creamy Mustard Sauce
adapted from Cooking Light's Fresh Food Fast

2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1 Tbs plus 1 tsp whole-grain dijon mustard, divided (I always use the brand Maille, its fantastic and can be bought practically worldwide)
1 Tbs Olive Oil
1 Tbs chopped fresh Rosemary
1/4 tsp salt
fresh ground black pepper
3 Tbs Mayonnaise
1 Tbs water

Trim, clean and pat dry your chicken breasts.   Whisk together  the 1 tsp mustard, Tbs Olive oil, chopped rosemary, and salt and pepper.  Pour over chicken breasts taking care to coat them completely.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24.   Remove chicken from the fridge an hour before you are ready to cook it and let it come to room temperature (it cooks much more evenly this way).

Prepare the grill.  Place chicken on center (hottest part) of grill and sear on both sides for 2 minutes or so - then place on outer (low heat) part of grill.  Cover and let cook and smoke slowly (turning occasionally) until its about 1 minute away from being done.   Remove from grill and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes (perfect amount of time to make the very simple sauce). 

Combine 1 Tbs mustard, the mayonnaise and the water in a small bowl.   Serve over chicken breasts (hint: when this sauce mixes with the juices from the chicken it becomes quite delicious).  

TIP: make sure your grill is very clean and very hot before placing the chicken on it and its much less likely to stick and then pull all the yummy outside bits off when you turn it.  

Angel Food Cake with Lemon Whipped Cream Frosting

I always want to make pretty cakes that inspire oohs and ahhs when you serve them.  Except that I'm really not much of a baker, and I especially am not good at making anything I cook 'pretty'.  Usually I don't mind too much, because we all know that what really matters is how it tastes right?  Half the time those gorgeous cakes are dry and flavorless anyway (see: my wedding cake.).  

But then there was Angel Food Cake.  I'm not sure there is anything prettier, fluffier, or sweeter.  I absolutely love the stuff.  I think everyone has a favorite kind of cake (no? just me?  really?)  and my favorite has always been Angel Food. 

I was a bit surprised when I moved to Germany and realized (by doing an informal poll of my international group of friends) that Angel Food cake is pretty much an American thing.   I knew I had to make some for my friends so they experience the sweet fluffy goodness , but - there being no angel food cake here and all - an angel food cake pan was impossible to find.

Luckily my mom was awesome enough to send me one for my birthday and I promptly got to separating eggs, whipping eggs whites and sifting flour and sugar.  I had made this before in the states, and I found this recipe to produce a far superior Angel Food cake to anything I had tried before. The first cake I made was a complete disaster though.  See - I forgot the very important step of inverting the cake to cool and the cake lovingly became known as "crater cake."    Sure it tasted good...but it wasn't pretty.

Luckily eggs aren't too expensive (even organic, free range ones 'round here) and I didn't give up.  And in the meantime I found myself with a very large number of egg yolks to put to good use in what has become my very favoritist frosting ever - Lemon Whipped Cream. 

Its really simple:  take 500g Whipped Cream (Schlag Sahne) and a scant amount of sugar and beat it with an electric mixer until its very stiff (careful....you go too long it will turn to butter).  Then fold in a half cup to a cup of Lemon Curd (just to taste).  I got this fantastic idea from Alice Waters in the Art of Simple Food, and this tart and not-too-sweet frosting just pairs magically with Angel Food Cake.

I had never iced an Angel Food Cake before - I had always eaten it fairly plain, maybe with some berries or fruit compote and some whipped cream at the most.   Iced, with some fresh raspberries and blueberries in the center for decoration,  it was just amazing.  The lemon and berries together with the sweet but low-fat cake seemed so summer-y - it was the ultimate dessert to enjoy after a backyard BBQ and I think would make an adorable take-along to a Fourth of July celebration. 

Angel Food Cake 
with Lemon Whipped Cream Frosting
recipe from Gourmet November 2001

• 1 1/2 cups egg whites (11 to 12 large eggs)
• 1 1/2 cups (150 g) sifted confectioners sugar (sift before measuring)
• 1 cup (100 g) sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring)(type 405 in Germany)
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar
• 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla

• Special equipment: a 10-inch tube pan (about 4 inches deep) with a removable bottom

Let egg whites stand in large wide bowl at room temperature about 1 hour before making cake. (They should be about 60°F, slightly below room temperature.) 

Set oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 350°F (180 C)

Sift together confectioners sugar, flour, and salt onto a sheet of wax paper using a fine sieve (I just sifted into a bowl). 

Beat whites in mixer until frothy. Add cream of tartar and beat at medium speed until they form soft peaks. Add granulated sugar gradually, beating, and continue beating just until whites are thickened and form soft, droopy peaks. Beat in vanilla. 

Sprinkle one fourth of sifted dry ingredients over whites and fold in with a rubber spatula gently but thoroughly. Fold in remaining dry ingredients, one third at a time. 

Gently pour batter evenly into ungreased tube pan and bake until top is light golden, cake retracts a bit from pan and springs back when touched lightly, and a tester comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Invert pan onto neck of an empty wine bottle or a large metal funnel and cool cake completely (mine didn't fit on either of those and I just set it inverted on a baking rack and that worked just fine).

To remove cake from pan, run tip of a long, narrow knife between outer edge of cake and pan. Tilt cake pan on its side and gently tap bottom edge against counter. Rotate pan, tapping and turning a few more times, until cake appears free. Cover pan with a metal rack or cardboard round (or dinner plate as I did) and invert, tapping pan firmly to loosen cake. Lift pan from cake. (It should come out beautifully, like a pillow taken out of a slipcover.) 

To frost, simply gently spread the icing in large heaping spoonfuls with a rubber spatula.  Since I used a thick coating of frosting I didn't see any need to do a crumb coat and the whole bit.  Frost around the whole cake including in the center hole.  I think this cake looks cute with the frosting kind of fluffy and 'rustic looking' but feel free to make yours all smooth and pretty with a cake spreader if that is your thing.   Keep the cake in the fridge until serving.  Fill the center with fresh berries - I used raspberries and blueberries - but I can't think of  a single berry that wouldn't taste great with this.  Strawberries are especially awesome.