Cream of Celery Soup

Celery is a vegetable I have never particularly cared for.  I will use it as a base for soups & sauces - but there is something about it I always found slightly off-putting.  I know a lot of people who feel this way about tomatoes and I have always said they only feel that way because they have never had a real tomato - one straight off the vine.  I realized this might be part of the reason why I don't like celery - its such a common ingredient we have gotten used to it being in the stores year round but really - like most vegetables - its in season in summer and early autumn. 

So this week at the farmers market I saw fresh locally grown first-harvest celery and I have to say I barely recognized it.  It was a beautiful dark green - lush and leafy and still attached to its bulbous root.  I had to buy it, and decided immediately I would make this soup.  See - I used to hate fennel (or anything remotely resembling anise-flavor) too.  Then, my first (and last) time dining at a Michelin-star restaurant,  I had a Fennel Cream soup and I had a total flavor epiphany.  I think you could literally see the light bulb go on over my head and suddenly I got it.  Now I finally understood the beauty and subtley of that flavor - and all the delicious places it could go (it was the best soup I have ever tasted.  Really.). 

So now when I see a really beautiful ingredient I tend to gravitate toward a really simple cream soup.  This soup is light and fresh tasting and seems perfect for summer (it would be great for a harvest-time meal as well).  The pure celery flavor (which by the way, is not at all the same as when its that white watery stuff we use during the winter) just shines and tastes so fresh and summery.  With the gremolata it is over-the-top delicious - the bright crispiness of the herbs and lemon make such a perfect compliment.    I do realize the irony of a creamy soup recipe directly following my post saying I'm on a diet.  But here's the thing - simply leave out the cream (you can let people stir it into their own bowls if you like) and this is still a rich, satisfying and delicious soup.  The cream just gives it that extra something special.  That being said - about 3 cups (which I would call one main dish serving) of this is only 225 calories (but 24g fat if you are counting).


Cream of Celery Soup with Celery Leaf Gremolata
5 cups finely chopped celery
1 cup chopped celery leaf
2 medium onions, diced
2 cups diced peeled celery root (supplement with potato if your celery root isn't big enough)
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs butter
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
salt & pepper
Olive oil (optional)

Gremolata:
1 Tbs celery leaf, finely chopped
1 Tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 small clove of garlic, finely minced or pressed

Heat butter in a heavy pot over medium heat.  Add celery, celery leaf, and onions.  Stir and cover and cook down until very soft and just barely beginning to caramelize - around 25 minutes.  Stir occasionally.  (This is a good time to make the gremolata)

Add celery root and garlic and stock.  Stir, raise heat and bring just to a boil then cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for around 35 or 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season with salt and pepper.

Turn off the heat and with an immersion blender blend the soup until no lumps remain.  Taste and season as necessary.  You can do this ahead and keep in fridge or freezer.

Stir in the cream and taste and season again if necessary.  Ladle into bowls and drizzle with a nice light & fruity olive oil and top with a spoonful (or to taste) of gremolata. 

Gremolata:  simply combine all the ingredients and mash together in a mortar & pestle or in a small bowl with the back of a spoon. 

Fat Free Chocolate Cake!

Being that I had a baby not quite 4 months ago, I am currently trying very hard to lose weight.  I have a lot of it to lose  - and that means getting very serious about my diet.  The working out thing, I can do (or I used to be able to do before my abdominal muscles were shredded and then sliced open) - but following a strict diet is difficult because I LOVE food - eating and preparing it.  Its very trendy right now to go the way of Michael Pollan and say just eat real foods and if you want dessert make it from scratch, right?

Um, wrong - cause I already do all that.  I don't eat convenience foods and unfortunately I really have fallen in love with baking.  Telling me to make my own desserts will not help me lose the weight I gained during pregnancy - quite the opposite.  I have to go the much harder route - if I want to lose I have to find a way to eat a lower calorie diet at home.   Which means what I really have to do is find a way to make 'diet' food something I actually enjoy making and eating.  Cooking is much easier (and more fun) when you aren't concerned with the amount of butter you are using.

And of course, when my birthday rolled around a few weeks ago and I really wanted to make a chocolate cake, that meant I needed to find something that wouldn't undo all my hard work.  I immediately thought of Angel Food cake, which is one of my favorite things anyway.  I had always wanted to try a chocolate one and I found this recipe filed under 'healthy' on Epicurious and I thought I would give it a try.  You know what, its really good.  Its slightly more dense than traditional Angel Food cake and could easily be used to substitute any chocolate cake if needed.  Its not too sweet, very chocolatey and only has 185 calories a slice (less if you are making more than 8 slices - which we did).  Its the perfect indulgence for those on a restricted diet and its tastes great even if you aren't.  We had it with just a dollop of Greek yogurt that I stirred some vanilla bean into, and we loved it! 

Diet Friendly Chocolate Cake
from  Chef Albaladejo at Four Seasons Aviara
1 1/2 cup sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
1/4 tsp salt
12 egg whites
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 163 C / 325 F

Sift 1 cup of the sugar, flour, cocoa and salt together in a small bowl.

In a (very) large mixing bowl beat egg whites, lemon juice and vanilla on medium-high until peaks form.  Add sugar and beat on high until semi-stiff peaks form (don't overbeat they will break down). 

With a rubber spatula slowly and gently fold in dry ingredients until all incorporated.  Spoon into a tube pan and cook for 45-55 minutes or until the top springs back when you touch it (I found it to be on the lower end of that time frame). 

Remove from oven and invert onto a wire cooling rack to cool (if you don't invert the cake will sink!).   Gently remove cake from pan after it has completely cooled and serve.  Its great with yogurt or cream or marscapone, dusted in powdered sugar, with a light glaze, with fruit...you name it, the possibilities are endless!

Bucatini Pomodoro

I have been completely obsessed with making pasta the past few weeks.  Its been almost two years since I went to Rome and I have been finding myself daydreaming about pasta, gelato, and granita.  I loved Rome and for two years have been trying to plan another trip to Italy.  It hasn't worked out so far (even though its just a very short plane ride away *sob*).

So I have been attempting to bring Italy to me by learning to make delicious pasta dishes.  Bon Appetit magazine must have read my mind too, because their entire May issue was dedicated to Italy - with an awesome tutorial on how to make perfect pasta.  The cover recipe?  Bucatini Pomodoro.  I immediately tried it - and I kid you not we have eaten this for dinner once a week since (not really so great for the diet, but whatchagonnado).

Pasta really is such an affordable meal though, and when you figure out how to do it right, even simple spaghetti with tomato sauce seems like an indulgent gourmet meal.  I spend just a little extra buying some fantastic pasta imported from Italy (though that is cheaper here in Europe than I would imagine it is in say, the US) and also slightly-better-than-cheapest canned tomatoes.  I see a huge difference in quality (the pasta itself and the tomatoes are truly everything in this recipe) for just a few extra cents that, to me, its worth it.  However, even with the cheapest stuff this is just damned good.   Enjoy with a favorite bottle of wine and it turns 'spaghetti night' into something extra special.

Bucatni Pomodoro
from this recipe from the May issue of Bon Appetit

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 medium onion, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
pinch Red Pepper Flakes
a few glugs dry Red Wine (I use the Chianti we drink with the meal)
2 cans whole tomatoes, pureed in food processor
a few basil sprigs
2 Tbs unsalted butter
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
12 oz bucatini or spegetti (I really recommend the bucatini!)


Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat.  Add the onion and saute until soft, 10 to 12 minutes.  Add the Garlic and red pepper flakes and cook for another minute or two.  Raise heat to medim and pour in the wine and allow to simmer down for a minute or so (this was my addition and I really think it made a BIG difference in the flavor/richness of the sauce but feel free to leave it out).  Add the pureed tomatoes and cook for around 20 minutes, or until sauce thickens and flavors combine.  Remove from heat, stir in the basil, and set aside (this can be done waaay ahead too).

Cook your pasta in salted boiling water until a few minutes shy of al dente (follow times on the package to help you cook it just right).  Reserve 1/2 cup (I always set aside a whole cup just in case) of the starchy cooking water and drain.

Remove the basil from the sauce and return to the heat (on high).   Add 1/2 cup pasta water and bring to a boil.  Add the pasta and toss to coat - allow to cook until pasta is al dente (should be just a minute or two).  Remove from heat and add the butter and parmesan, tossing to combine until its all melted.  Serve warm! 

Strawberry Rhubarb Crostata

I think one of my favorite smells ever is strawberry and rhubarb together.  How come you never see that in a scented candle?  No matter, cause it filled my kitchen yesterday when I was making this incredibly easy dessert.  I have been seeing long stalks of rhubarb at the market for weeks now, it has been beguiling me with its pretty hues of light pink and green (and super cheap price tag).  I never quite know what to do with rhubarb though - this isn't something I grew up with.  In fact, I think it may have only been in the past couple of years that I had ever even tasted it.

And how weird is that?  I find food like this all the time - stuff everyone seems to know about and have grown up with (or at at least tasted!) that I barely even knew existed.   I really have no idea why that is, either.  I was not a sheltered child by any means, but clearly when it comes to food - my family didn't get out much.  Maybe thats why I love it so much now?  It all seems so new - not only the fruit itself but the very existence of a pie thats not a pie.  And really, with its adorable rustic-ness and lack of pan to clean afterward - there is something so much better about a Crostata (or Gallete....or whatever you want to call it in possibly an English word as well) than a traditional pie or tart.

Especially with this crust.  I saw this recipe in this months Bon Appetit magazine (though it was raspberry and not strawberry), and it sounded so simple and had so few ingredients that weren't already in my pantry (I only needed to buy the fruit) - I decided it would be my first Mothers Day dessert.  The thing that always deters me from making more crusted pastries is that I don't want to make the crust.  I don't want to cut the butter into cubes (freeze it for like 20 minutes and it doesn't get all melty when you are trying to cut it), I don't want to sit and mess with the dough until it becomes 'crumb' like...it just isn't that fun to me.  This one though, made entirely in the food processor, took literally only a few minutes to make.  The whole wheat flour makes the dough rich and crumbly...and it literally became my new favorite pastry crust.  The filling is tart and sweet (but not too sweet) and is the perfect combination with the nutty and flaky crust.   With how easy and delicious this is, I wish I could get my hands on rhubarb for more than a just a few weeks each spring - I'll just have to find some other seasonal options (I'm thinking this crust is destined for peaches this summer, and maybe plums this fall!). 


Strawberry Rhubarb Crostata
from Karen DeMasco in May 2011 Bon Appetit

Crust:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (172g) cold unsalted butter, cubed
1 egg
1 tablespoon milk

Filling:
1/4 cup cornstarch
4 cups rhubarb, in about 1/2 inch thick slices
6 ounces strawberries, diced
1/3 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten
Raw sugar

For Crust:
Combine flours, sugar, and salt in a food processor and blend for 5 seconds. Add the butter; pulse until butter is in pea-size pieces. Whisk egg and milk together in a small bowl; add to the processor and pulse until moist clumps form. Gather dough into a ball and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill at least 1 1/2 hours. Can be made a couple days ahead (I made mine the night before) - keep in the refrigerator. 

For Filling:

Dissolve the cornstarch in 3 tablespoons water in a small bowl and set aside. Combine rhubarb, strawberries and sugar in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until sugar dissolves and juices are released - took mine about 5 minutes. 

 

Stir in the cornstarch and bring just to a boil (rhubarb will not be tender and slices will still be intact). Careful not to let the sugar burn! Transfer to a bowl and stick in the fridge or freezer to chill until its all the way cooled (but doesn't need to be cold). 

 

Preheat oven to 400 F / 204 C

Roll out dough on floured parchment paper to 12-inches round; brush with beaten egg. 

Mound filling in center of crust; gently spread out, leaving 1 1/2-inch border (I measure at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, making a little mark in the dough so that I didn't get to close to the edges). 

Gently fold edges of dough over filling, pleating as needed. Brush border with egg; sprinkle with raw sugar. Slide parchment with crostata onto a baking sheet (I actually used my 12-inch round pizza stone - cause my oven is small and something round won't fit on baking sheets that actually fit in my oven!) and bake until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbly, about 30-45 minutes (took mine exactly 35). Let cool on baking sheet on a rack. Cut into wedges, and serve with whipped cream or ice cream (or its really just as amazing plain!)

Classic Banana Bread

I used to hate baking.  When it came to time spent in the kitchen, I would usually much rather spend it over a pot of soup or a sizzling skillet.  That is, until I got pregnant.  I have officially fallen in love with baking - really, its more like I have become obsessed with it.   This is partly because all I want to eat is baked goods.  Real food?  Blech.  Cake?  Yes please (and could you make that slice a little bigger?).

Mostly, though, its because I have very little energy for doing things like cooking (and even less for taking photos and blogging about it, sorry 'bout that).  I have had a rough third trimester, with a risk of pre-term labor, and so when I do feel up to doing anything other than laying in bed watching past seasons of Top Chef, I find myself wanting to spend the precious time making something more exciting than dinner (thats what my husband is for).

Due to my pregnancy-enhanced obsession with bananas - I also frequently find myself with an ample supply of ripe bananas just begging to be made into some kind of sweet treat.   Strangely, I had never made banana bread in my life until last month, and I haven't been able to stop making it since, determined to get it perfect.  Its super moist with the occasional crunch from the walnuts and with just the right amount of sweetness.  Its just so simple and so delicious and so perfect with a cup of coffee on a boring Sunday afternoon in January.   And it will make your whole house smell like childhood.   Perfect.

**As I am expecting the imminent arrival of my son - I don't anticipate any posts for the next few weeks.  See you soon!!**

Classic Banana Bread
1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour (German type 550)
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 eggs, at room temp
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 (113 g) butter, softened/at room temp
1 cup sugar
1 heaping cup mashed ripe banana (about 2 or 3 very ripe bananas)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted

Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt and set aside.  Whisk together the eggs and vanilla and set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the sugar and butter together until light and fluffy.  Pour in the eggs while mixing, then the bananas.  The batter will seem kinda curdled at this point, that's ok.

Gently fold in the flour mixture until just combined, then stir in the walnuts.   Pour into a lightly buttered loaf pan and bake at 180 C / 350 F for 40 to 55 minutes or until a tester comes out clean.  Cool in pan for 10 minutes on a rack then gently turn it out of the pan and cool completely on a wire rack.  Store wrapped in plastic wrap.  Like a lot of quick breads - this one tastes great right away but is even more amazing the next day.  I like it plain or spread with a bit of cream cheese.

Camembert-Dijon Cauliflower Gratin

I love Cauliflower.  Like its cousin Broccoli, this is a taste I acquired in adulthood - but I have been so converted it has easily become one of my favorite vegetables.  It is inexpensive and filling - I love it roasted, tossed in stir-fry - and definitely with lots of  cheese.  In fact,  I think Cauliflower shines the brightest with cheese (what doesn't??) - and I am convinced there is not a picky eater in the world who wouldn't like it. 

If you pair it with the right cheese, cauliflower is sublime.  I think the flavors of Camembert and Mustard make the perfect compliment to the nutty flavor of this cruciferous gem.  And creamy and cheesy gratins are the quintessential indulgent Holiday side dish.  There is rarely another time during the year when I feel I can justify eating them - even if they are one of my favorite comfort foods.

I served this last year for both Thanksgiving and Christmas - along side both roasted Turkey and Prime Rib.  It was devoured and praised at both tables, the recipe begged for and the bottom of the dish scraped clean.  That is to say - this is really really good.   I find myself craving it all year long.  The flavors are just a magical combination - and when the breadcrumbs get all mixed into the thick sauce it also makes an intensely pleasing combination of textures.  Take the extra few minutes to make your own breadcrumbs and it really adds that extra something. 


Camembert-Dijon Cauliflower Gratin
1 large head Cauliflower, cut into small to medium sized florets
57g (about 1/4 cup) butter
1/4 cup (25g) flour
2 cups milk, heated (1 percent to whole is good, but I would not use skim)
3 large heaping Tablespoons Whole Grain dijon-style mustard
140g (1 round) of Camembert cheese with the rind removed (just slice it off)
1/4 cup grated Gran Padano cheese (Parmesan would work too)
1 Tsp Sea Salt


Breadcrumbs:
4-8 slices Whole Grain bread (depends on your size bread!), with the crusts removed
a few Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/2 tsp dried Thyme
1/2 tsp dried Oregano

Preheat the oven to 400 F / 200 C

Make the breadcrumbs first - pulse the bread in a food processor a few times until the size of small to medium bread crumbs.   Then, in a bowl toss with olive oil and herbs.  Spread evenly on a baking sheet and toast in oven just until dry, tossing once during cooking if needed - about 2 to 5 minutes.  Remove from oven and cool.  You can make these a day or two ahead and keep stored in a plastic bag. 


Steam or boil in salt water the cauliflower florets until just beginning to soften. Drain and arrange in a small casserole dish (like a 2 quart Pyrex).

 Make the sauce. In a small saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. As soon as its melted, add in the flour, whisking constantly.

Whisk in the hot milk and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly (it will start to thicken). Add the mustard and salt and whisk to combine.

Add the Camembert a few pieces at time,  whisking until each is melted before adding more. Add the Parmesan and whisk until melted and smooth.

Remove from heat and pour immediately over the cauliflower.  Top with your breadcrumbs and cook, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes.  The sauce should be bubbling up the sides and the breadcrumbs a delicious golden brown. 

Sundried Tomato Pesto

It may surprise you to know, I used to be a notoriously picky eater as a child. The type who wouldn't eat any sauce on my spaghetti, and used to gag if there were any peas on my plate. Then, my family started traveling and eating out more and I slowly learned to truly love and appreciate food. I remember the first time I tried something really new - something totally crazy - and realized that I actually liked it. It was in a little restaurant in Spain when I was 11 years old, and I had just, without realizing it, gobbled down several pieces of blood sausage.

 Another time was my first time eating real Italian food at a little restaurant in Leicester Square in London when I was about the same age. I was complaining that I didn't like pasta (like I even knew!) so the waiter brought me spegetti with pesto, insisting I would love it.  He was right - it rocked my world.  I will never forget that simple little plate of noodles. 

Since then I have fallen in love with food.  I love sun-dried tomatoes, especially during the fall and winter when fresh tomatoes and the summer seem like such a distant memory.  Walnuts, red wine and balsamic vinegar make this a very rich pesto that is hearty and satisfying.  Mixed with some Parmesan cheese and tossed into pasta it makes a simple but delicious and easy meal.  This makes a pretty large batch that I put up in the freezer - a jar will keep for several weeks in the fridge as well. 


Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto
150 grams (around 4 to 5 oz) Sun-Dried Tomatoes
chopped fresh basil (I just grab a small handful - maybe 2 tbs after its chopped)
chopped fresh oregano (ditto)
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 of an onion, chopped
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 cup red wine
black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil

Soak the tomatoes in water for about an hour or until they are nice and soft, then drain and coarsely chop.

In a food processor combine everything except the olive oil. Once combined, drip in the oil while the machine is running. Season with pepper as needed (or maybe salt - many sun-dried tomatoes are salted so the salt is unnecessary).

Will keep in the fridge for several weeks (take care to always use a clean spoon and keep it covered) or for several months in the freezer.  I strongly encourage mixing Parmesan cheese into it upon serving (I don't do this to begin with to extend its shelf life and to keep it vegan just in case). 

Cream of Chantarelles Soup

Last year as Autumn approached - I found myself seeking after an idyllic autumn with cool deep forests, wild mushrooms, apple picking and American football games.  When I close my eyes I can almost smell the damp air and hear the red and golden leaves as they rustle in the breeze.  This longing has stayed with me for the entire year.   I am normally a summer girl, but all summer I have been anxiously awaiting the arrival of Fall.  The temperature has dipped here in Berlin after a very hot summer and now the most beautiful time of year - the cooler later part of summer and early warmer fall -  is here.

In fact, I knew it must be about that time when I started seeing large baskets of Chanterelles at the farmers market.  Here in Germany they apparently love their Pfferlinge, and the season (much like Spargel - or Asparagus -season) is opened with much fanfare by local markets and restaurants.   I find myself drawn to the large piles of fungus with their gorgeous golden hue, fan-like ridged appearance, and those tell-tale signs that they just made their way from the beautiful German forest - little clumps of moist black dirt, pine needles, and flecks of soft green moss.

Every year when I see them I want to do something special to highlight their unique flavor.  Of course, being me, I found myself drawn to making a rich, indulgent, and creamy soup.  This soup might be one of my favorites I have ever made - its practically obscene its so rich and flavorful.  The flavor of the Chanterelles is everything  - all the other ingredients serve to bring that to the front.  Its soothing and filling - and drizzled with a nice fruity olive oil and topped with some crispy-fried chopped Chanterelles it makes not only a delicious, but a gorgeous, main dish or first course.  The flavor of this soup is very simple and so greatly depends on the quality of the individual ingredients - use a flavorful stock and good quality wine and olive oil and you won't regret it.

Cream of Chanterelles Soup 
500g fresh Chatarelles, cleaned and coarsely chopped
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (I also have a really nice olive oil I brought back from Nice that I only use for drizzling - this is what I used to garnish the soup)
1 cup finely chopped onion (about half a large onion)
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 Tbs flour
4 or 5 Tbs sweet Red Wine (I used a Vin d'Pays that I am rather fond of -  and if I wasn't pregnant, I would have enjoyed a glass or three with the soup as well)
2 cups Chicken or Vegetable Stock
1 cup 1% milk
1 cup heavy cream
Sea Salt
Fresh ground Black Pepper

First, prepare the Chanterelles.   Heat a large saute or frying pan over medium - high heat.  Once its heated, add a few glugs of olive oil (so it just coats the bottom of the pan).   Saute the Chanterelles in small batches (a large handful at a time - so they saute and don't steam - and seasoning each batch with a pinch of salt) until soft and browned.   Remove each batch with a slotted spoon to a plate or bowl and set aside.  On the last batch, deglaze the pan with just a small splash of red wine, scraping up all the brown bits and reserving with the rest of the chanterelles.

Reserve a small amount of the cooked Chanterelles (like a 1/4 to 1/2 cup) to use as a garnish - its nice to fry these a bit more as well, until nice and carmelized and a tad bit crunchy.  

Heat a large cast iron pot or stock pot over medium heat.  Add a glug of olive oil then the chopped onions and a pinch of salt.  Saute until soft and translucent and just beginning to brown around the edges - around 10 minutes.  Add the minced garlic and saute another minute more.  Add the cooked Chanterelles and stir to combine.

Stir in the flour so that it coats all the veggies, then add the Red Wine.  Stir vigorously and scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan ( it will kind of become a bit of a goopy mess at this point).

Add the Stock and stir to combine.  Bring just to the boil, then reduce heat and let gently simmer, covered, for at least 10 minutes.    Stir in the milk and cream and taste - add salt and pepper as needed.   Let cook, uncovered,  over low heat (just below a simmer) for another 5 to 10 minutes - stirring frequently.    Taste again and season as necessary.

Remove soup from heat and let cool for a few minutes, then with an immersion blender, blend until smooth and thickened (you can use a regular blender, but take care not to burn yourself).    Taste again as sometimes once the soup is blended the flavors are slightly different.

Ladle into individual bowls and drizzle with olive oil and garnish with the fried Chanterelles.

Summer Minestrone Soup

I LOVE this time of year - late summer, as the temperatures drop and autumn fast approaches.  Everything is beautifully green in Berlin, there are breezy, sunny days mixed in with gray rainy ones - and the farmers market is still brimming with all that summer harvest.  Its the best of both worlds.   Its also a great time to make soup. 

I am a big fan of soup for a lot of reasons - its usually inexpensive, it freezes well, makes great lunches later on (either for yourself or to put in a thermos for kiddos), and it (usually) doesn't dirty a lot of dishes or require hours and hours of slaving away (in others words, its easy).  Its also the most comforting, soothing thing I can think of - no matter what the season.

For almost my entire life, my only exposure to Minestrone soup, however, had been from those infamous red and white cans.  No disrespect, but that stuff is just plain awful - and as a result I had gone most of my life thinking I hated Minestrone soup.  Oh how wrong I was.  Minestrone, it turns out, its probably one of my favoritist things ever.  It combines some my favorite things (veggies, beans, pasta) into one of my favorite dishes (soup).  Its easily adapted for any season and it makes a hearty, filling and super healthy meal.  This particular Minestrone has skyrocketed to the top of my all-time-favorite soups list - the broth is intensely flavored, earthy from the beans (and their cooking liquid), but also a bit sweet from the leeks and zucchini.  Its a perfect meal for a rainy late August or early September day. 

Summer Minestrone Soup
(adapted from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food)
225g dried beans (like Borlotti or Cannellini - I used a kind that were labeled Marmor beans and that I had honestly never seen before.  They worked wonderfully) - this yields around 675g (3 cups) cooked beans.  
Olive Oil
1 large onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 1/2 tsp dried thyme (or 5 stalks fresh)
1 bay leaf
2 tsp salt
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup water
1 small leek, diced
2 medium Zucchini, diced (roughly 3 cups diced)
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 cup frozen chopped spinach (or of course fresh if you have it - I keep frozen on hand all the time so I prefer not to buy something new)
225ml (1 cup) bean cooking liquid (or more if necessary)
1 or 2 cups cooked pasta (I used an artisan over-sized macaroni to provide a contrast to all the small veggies - I loved it.  However, anything from vermicelli to penne to regular macaroni would taste great). 

First, prepare your beans (this is something I have usually done days before and keep on hand in the fridge or freezer).  It is an important step in this soup however, because much of the amazing, unique flavor from this soup comes from using the bean cooking liquid.

Soak the beans overnight and drain.  Put in a large stockpot or dutch oven with plenty of water (at least a few inches over the level of the beans).  Add a bay leaf and bring to a boil.  Skim off the foam, then reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for 1 to 4 hours depending on your beans (I usually find I need at least 3 hours).  Just taste the beans to know when they are done.  Add salt at the very end and let cook for a few minutes more.  Make sure to let beans cool in their liquid or their skins will peel off (if you are storing them, also store them in their cooking liquid).  Be sure to reserve a few cups of the cooking liquid for use in the soup (though I found the amount I stored the 3 cups of beans in to be just about the right amount).

In a heavy bottomed stock pot or french cast iron pot (my preference for making soup) heat a few Tbs olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion and carrots and cook for 15 minutes or until tender.

Add the minced garlic, thyme, bay leaf and salt.  Stir and cook for another 5 minutes.  Add the chicken or vegetable stock and water, cover,  and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat back to medium, then add the leek and let cook, covered,  for another 5 minutes or so.

Add the zucchini, tomatoes and spinach and cook (again, covered or I found I lost too much of the broth) for 15 minutes.  Add the cooked beans and bean cooking liquid.  Taste and season with salt if necessary.  Cover again and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes.  If the soup is seeming a bit crowded/thick, add more water or bean cooking liquid to your taste (if its the opposite uncover and let simmer for a few minutes to boil-off some of the liquid).  Add the cooked pasta, let cook for just another minute or two and ladle into bowls to serve.  You could garnish with Parmesan cheese or croutons but I found it to be filling and perfect just on its own as well.

Lemon Curd

I love lemon sweets.  I think it all started with those sweet frozen lemonades we used to get at fairs and the ballpark when I was a kid, though it quickly expanded to things like lemon bars, lemon cake, and tart little lemon cookies.  Lemon cupcakes with lemon frosting are especially awesome.  However, until not too long ago I had never heard of  Lemon Curd.  In fact, the first I ever heard of it was reading through The Art of Simple Food and it promptly became the first recipe I bookmarked.

Maybe you are like me and had never heard of this little delight before.  Simply put its eggs (and a few extra yolks) whipped up with fresh lemon and cooked until nice and thick (almost pudding like).  Then you can do with it what you will - its delicious spread on toast,  biscuits, or scones for breakfast or a tea time snack.  You can also use it as a base for other desserts - like a tart as suggested by Alice Waters in her book.   I envision it between layers of cake, as a filling for cupcakes or donuts and somehow incorporated with Cheesecake (with raspberries!).  Mix it with whipped cream (again as suggested by Ms. Waters) and it makes an absolutely amazing icing (look for a recipe soon).   Basically this is  super tart and super-lemony with just the right amount of sweetness and creaminess and couldn't be easier to whip up.  I think I am in love.

Lemon Curd
recipe from The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters
4 lemons (or 2 really large lemons)
2 eggs
3 egg yolks
2 Tbs. milk
100 g sugar (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 tsp salt (omit if using salted butter)
75g (1/3cup) butter, cut into small pieces

Grate the zest of the lemons on the small holes of a grater (I used a microplane).  Juice the lemons - there should be about 100ml juice.

Beat the eggs, yolks, milk, sugar and salt until mixed well.  Stir in the lemon juice and zest and add the butter.  Cook this mixture in a nonreactive heavy pan, stirring constantly, over medium heat until its thick enough to coat a spoon.  Do not allow to boil or the eggs will curdle.  When thick, pour into a glass jar or bowl to cool.  Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Steamed Artichokes with Garlic & Lemon Butter

Artichokes are complex, withholding, and stubborn vegetables.  And yet...they are also beautiful, delicate and delectable.   One of the greatest pleasures of one of the most pleasurable seasons is enjoying a steamed whole artichoke, leaf by leaf, slowly making your way to the soft, silky heart.  Dipping each bit in a garlicky lemon butter and pairing with a glass of Provençal Rose outside on the terrace as the sun sits low in the sky, and you will have experienced the sublime.

The simple joy of a whole steamed fresh artichoke is something I had never experienced until my mid-twenties.  Growing up in a mixture of the midwestern United States and Scandinavia, they weren't exactly readily available.  My husband however, grew up in the mediterrean-like climate of California and has fond childhood memories of scraping mayonnaise-dipped artichoke flesh off spiny green leaves until unearthing the heart like a hidden treasure. 

The first time I took a few irresistible artichokes home for the market I set them on my counter and wondered what on earth I was going to do with them.  I had enjoyed artichokes hearts so many times in so many ways, but looking at this spiky green and violet cone I had no idea how to get to it.  While  it does take a slight bit of preparation - its really quite simple.  Steamed artichokes can make the ideal appetizer at a dinner party, slowly shared around a large table while the main dish finishes cooking, they are simple and can be prepared and served with relatively little fuss.  We had ours as the accompaniment to some simple grilled chicken, enjoying them on the patio with some wine while the chicken smoked on the grill.

Steamed Artichokes with Garlic & Lemon Butter
3 to 8 medium to larg-ish whole fresh artichokes
120 grams butter (like one stick in the US)
3 large cloves garlic, pressed or minced and crushed
300 ml fresh lemon juice (like one lemon)
a few sprigs fresh thyme

Prepare the artichokes:  Cut the stems about 1/2 inch from the base of the choke and slice off the top of the choke (about 1 inch).  Remove the most outer dark leaves. With a pair of kitchen shears, trim the prickly tip from each leaf.  Rub lemon on the cut edges to keep them from browning.

 To cook the artichokes:  place in a steamer basket over lightly boiling water and steam for 30 to 40 minutes.  Alternatively, you can place directly in the water.  They will bob up on the top of the water, so they will kind of half boil/half steam.  Remove the artichokes and place upside-down on a kitchen towel to drain while they cool.

While the artichokes are steaming, prepare your dipping sauce.  Place butter in a small saucepan over med-low heat.  Add the garlic and the whole thyme sprigs after its mostly melted and slowly cook the garlic.  Let cook this way for a few minutes, until the garlic and thyme become quite pungent (don't let it get to hot or the garlic will burn).  Remove the thyme and whisk in the lemon juice.  Let cook another minute or two.  Remove from heat  but keep warm until serving.  This sauce is probably enough for 4 to 6 people to share.

To eat the artichokes, pull each leaf off, dip it in the sauce then scrape/suck/bite off the tender green part of the leaf at the bottom .  As you get further in, each leaf will have a bit more of the heart on it.  When you get to the heart in the center, simply cut off the fuzzy stuff on top of it (you can remove this before cooking if you want as well) and eat the rest (remaining stem included).

Asparagus Soup

Asparagus season seems so short and fleeting that I rarely do anything with asparagus other than roast it in olive oil or grill it. Both of those are delicious, sure, but I was getting a bit bored of the same old thing. Not to mention I kinda got excited when I saw the asparagus at the store and may have bought a little too much of it.

I had intentions of making this a fancy white asparagus soup, and drizzling some fancy herb-infused olive oil over it that I brought back from Nice. The thing is, I didn't have enough white asparagus and why go buy more asparagus when I have like 3 more lbs of the green stuff sitting in the fridge? I have always wanted to make asparagus soup and I am so glad I did. It has a subtle, delicate asparagus flavor and is the prettiest shade of spring green. I wanted to eat the sauteed asparagus tips I made for the garnish like popcorn too.


Truly this soup was delicious. It tastes great with some whole grain bread and as I was eating it I couldn't help but think how tasty a scoop of brown rice or maybe even bulgur would be stirred into it as well. It freezes and refrigerates really well - in fact it might be even better the next day. Its great for lunch, a small simple dinner, or would make a lovely first course at one of those fancy sit-down dinner parties (you know, the kind I have never had).


Asparagus Soup
based loosely on Alice Waters' recipe in Chez Panisse Vegetables

500g (1 bunch or 1 lb) White Asparagus, peeled and chopped
500g Green Asparagus, chopped reserving all of the tops
1 HUGE Leek (or 2 normal ones), chopped
1 large yellow onion, chopped (all told I had about 3 1/2 or 4 cups chopped leek & onion)
2 potatoes, peeled and diced (medium-ish ones will do)
a few sprigs thyme (or a tsp or two dried)
bay leaf
olive oil
5 cups vegetable or chicken stock (in actual fact I used turkey stock and that was good too)
water (as needed)
salt and pepper

In a medium saucepan heat the stock to a low simmer, add the bay leaf and thyme sprigs and chopped asparagus and simmer for 15 minutes or just until the asparagus is getting soft.

Meanwhile, in a large stockpot stew the leek, onion, and potato in a few Tbs olive oil and a bit of water until the veggies are very soft. (you know I was thinking, garlic wouldn't be bad in this either, I might try that next time)

Add the broth and asparagus and simmer all together (uncovered) for about 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Blend with an immersion blender until smooth. Allow to sit (the soup thickens and flavor intensifies as it cools) for 20 minutes or so before serving.

In a small frying pan heat some olive oil over medium heat. Add the green asparagus tips and saute until they begin to turn a golden brown. Remove from heat immediately. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with the asparagus tips.

Making Pizza (and other life lessons)

Sometimes when life is at its most overwhelming and I am feeling utterly powerless against it, cooking really helps. Chopping, pounding, kneading do wonders to work out frustration - and nothing beats the sense of accomplishment at the end when you have a delicious meal to enjoy. Especially when making something new and exciting that I have always been afraid of - like pizza dough.Making things like this make me feel less afraid to tackle the other things I have been avoiding in my life due to misplaced anxiety - like taking German classes. For 22 months I have been avoiding signing up for German classes, all the while struggling along in a life where I can't read my mail or understand the customer service agent on the phone. Its lame, living a life where you don't make your own pizza or speak the language simply because you afraid of trying something new.
But I conquered the pizza. I am sure my dough will get better and better as I practice but I did it. I just topped it with what was sounding good that day and were inexpensive at my local market - fresh local asparagus, caramelized onions and goat cheese (which I haven't stopped craving since we were in France). It was actually pretty easy, and the final product was amazing. I also realized something as I was making my humble little pizza - pizza is super cheap and (depending on what you put on it) doesn't have to be too bad for you either, which makes learning how to make it all the better.

Which brings me back to the German classes. There is a school right in my neighborhood, its affordable, and you can register online. Why haven't I done this before again? Well, if I can successfully make Pizza (which for some reason I never thought I could) then I am sure with a little practice and effort I can learn German too - and starting next month I am taking classes. So here is to getting over ourselves - and enjoying life more in the process!


Roasted Asparagus, Caramelized Onion & Goat Cheese Pizza
5 to 10 thin green asparagus stalks, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 very large onion, thinly sliced
1 log goat cheese, sliced into thin rounds (like a cup or so)(come on, pizza toppings don't need to be exact)
2 or 3 Tbs Simple Marinara sauce
1/2 recipe of pizza dough (see below)
olive oil
butter

Pizza Dough
adapted from Alice Waters' Art of Simple Food
2 tsp dry yeast
100 ml lukewarm water
1/2 cup (50g) whole wheat flour
3 1/4 cup (325g) unbleached plain white flour (type 550 in Germany)
3 tsp salt
175 ml cold water
50 ml olive oil

Stir together the dry yeast and warm water. Add the 1/2 cup whole wheat flour. Allow to sit until it gets bubbly - around 30 minutes.

Add to that the white flour, salt, cold water and olive oil. Mix throughly by hand. I just kneaded it right inside the bowl I was using since it was nice and big, but you could turn it all out onto a floured surface also. Knead for around 5 minutes.

Cover the dough inside a large bowl and let rise in a warm-ish place until it doubles in size (around 2 hours). You can also let it rise slowly overnight in the fridge, remove 2 hours before shaping.

Divide the dough into 2 balls. You can stick one in the freezer. Take the other one, cover it loosely in plastic wrap and let sit on the counter for an hour or so. Flatten into a disc, flour lightly then let sit another 15 minutes.

While the dough is rising the first time, start preparing your toppings. In a large skillet heat a couple tbs each of olive oil and butter. Add the sliced onions and saute over low heat for 20 minutes or so until carmelized and brown. Remove from heat and set aside.

Toss the chopped asparagus in olive oil and coarse sea salt and roast at 220 C (425 F) until its just starting to brown and soften (it will cook just a bit more on the pizza so you don't want to over do it). Remove from oven and set aside.

Place a pizza stone on the lowest rack in the oven (if you have it) and preheat the oven to its highest setting.

When you dough is ready, (its in a flat disc and has been sitting for 15 min or so), gently stretch it into a roundish shape (its really hard to get it perfect!) over a large piece of parchment paper (this will help you transfer it to the oven so you can cook it right on the pizza stone. If you don't have a pizza stone, shape it on an inverted baking sheet or pizza pan).

Spread the marinara over the dough, leaving an inch or two crust around the outside. Evenly distribute the toppings on the pizza. Transfer the pizza to the oven and cook for around 10 minutes - until the crust is browned and the cheese is bubbly.

Simple Marinara

I hate buying pre-made stuff at the store, don't you? I have especially broken myself of this habit since leaving the US as many of the convenience items I was used to I had trouble finding here in Germany. One of those things I hate buying pre-made is Marinara sauce, or just simple tomato sauce. Why not just make my own from ingredients that I like? Oh yeah, and also because its super freaking cheap to make your own.

I tend to make this is big batches and keep it in the freezer. I keep it simple - adding no more seasonings than you see listed here - and then I season or add ingredients to it when I use it. I might add sauteed mushrooms or grated fresh parmesan or sauteed ground beef. I might dice up carrots, broccoli, or squash, or stir in some balsamic vinegar or heavy cream. I use the sauce for everything from pizza to lasagna to pasta to dipping sauce for breadsticks and pretzels.

Its just a good simple tomato sauce that is extremely handy to have on hand (this and veggie stock and cooked beans are in my freezer at all times). I imagine if you make it in the summer time from your own tomatoes it would be just divine (crossing my fingers that I will be able to this year), but I like knowing that I can make a decent tasting marinara no matter the time of year - and usually with things I already have laying around. When I don't feel like cooking, we can still have a nice meal by boiling some pasta and tossing it in this simple marinara - maybe with a bit of Parmesan and some salad on the side. Easy, cheap, fast comfort food that costs next to nothing but doesn't resort to convenience foods (and bonus - I calculated that 1/2 cup of this sauce only has roughly 54 calories). Love it.

Simple Marinara
2 cans (400 g or 14 oz) whole tomatoes
3 shallots, diced (about 1 cup)
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
10 or 12 fresh basil leaves, torn or chiffonade
2 Tbs Olive Oil
3 Tbs tomato paste
salt and pepper

Chop the canned tomatoes, reserving the juice from the can (you can of course use fresh tomatoes if they are in season and the tomatoes are super ripe).

In a heavy pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook another couple of minutes (do not let the garlic brown).

Add the tomatoes and their juices and the tomato paste and season gently with salt and pepper. Bring to a strong simmer and cook uncovered for around 10 minutes. Taste and season with salt/pepper if necessary. Cover, reduce heat and simmer gently for another 25 minutes or so.

Remove cover and add basil and cook for just a few more minutes. Taste a final time and season as necessary. Very carefully, with an immersion blender, blend until the big chunks are gone. You don't want it too smooth, but not too chunky either (you can put it in a blender too of course, just pulse it once or twice, but maybe let it cool a bit before you try to transfer it).

Let cool completely then freeze in sturdy plastic bags or glass jars, let defrost overnight in the fridge then heat over the stove as needed.

White Bean and Butternut Squash Soup

Hey, did you know there are these awesome things called Cookbooks? No - really - they are full of awesome recipes and instruction and tips and sometimes even really amazingly gorgeous photos or illustrations. I guess you probably knew that - but evidently I have been living under a rock. While I was in the US over the holiday however, I visited the cooking section of Borders and almost couldn't leave. If there wasn't a weight limit on my baggage I might have left that store with an empty bank account.

As it was, I got just a few books that really stood out to me. But just one of them has stolen my heart. There is just one that I have now read through twice - one that has in the space of just a week or two improved my cooking skills and inspired me to eat so much better and cook more at home - and that one is The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters. Now, you may know all about this wonderful lady already, but I am new to all this foodie stuff and had no idea what I was in for (you can read all about her and her work here). This book has wonderful instruction on how to do just about all the basic cooking from scratch you would ever want to do - laid out so its simple and easy to read and helps you incorporate it into your normal cooking routine. Its full of great recipes (that truly are simple and accessible) that are fit for every season and are written out in wonderful step-by-step way - not to mention that include important details to let you understand the cooking process being used and how to vary the recipe. Without a doubt, I think everyone should have this book.

This soup recipe was one that jumped out at me to try first simply because I already had so many of the ingredients on hand and I love soup - and of course it didn't disappoint. It is warm and rich and soothing, not to mention hearty and satisfying. It is indeed so simple, but it all comes together in a perfect combination of textures and flavors. It was the perfect meal for a cold snowy day in Berlin.

White Bean and Butternut Squash Soup
from The Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters
Soak in water overnight:
1 cup (225g) dried white beans

Drain and put into a large pot with:
3 cups (675 ml) chicken stock (I used vegetable stock)
4 cups (900ml) water

Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the beans are tender. Start checking after 45 minutes (it took mine more like 2 hours, which means I used more liquid than she called for also). Season to taste when cooked.

Heat in a heavy-bottomed pot:
2 tbs olive oil or duck fat (I used olive oil)

Add:
2 onions, peeled and thinly sliced (I used 1 very large onion)
3 or 4 sage leaves
1 bay leaf

Cook over medium heat until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in:
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-cm cubes*
Salt

Cook for 5 minutes. Drain the beans and add 1.35 liters of their cooking liquid to the squash and onions. Cook at a simmer until the squash starts to become tender. Add the beans and keep cooking until the squash is very soft. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

VARIATIONS:
-Serve hot soup over thickly sliced country-style bread that has been brushed with olive oil and toasted until crisp and golden brown. (I did this, it was delicious)
-Use other varieties of winter squash such as acorn, onion squash, the green Crown Prince squash and gem squash (which is the size of a tennis ball).

*In another part of the book, she instructs that a butternut squash (and most squash) can be peeled using a normal swivel-headed vegetable peeler. It worked pretty well for me - not as easy as peeling a carrot - but it worked.

Black Bean Burgers & Sweet Potato Fries

The goals of simplifying your life and being more healthy can sometimes seem to be at odds with each other. Making more stuff from scratch, eating more balanced meals, eating less meat....can all seem, at first, to make life infinitely more complicated. I am finding however, that once some of these things (like soaking and cooking beans, making stock, and chopping vegetables) become habit and incorporated into my daily routine - they really don't take any extra time or effort. They even become little tasks I look forward to in the middle of all the mundane ones.


I am also figuring out recipes that both simplify my day and are more healthy. I happen to love vegetarian 'burgers', and used to buy those pre-made vegetable patties from the freezer section all the time back in the States. They were ok, but always left me a little dissatisfied. I have attempted making plenty of different homemade versions - but they always seem too soft or too crumbly and simply fall apart when you try to cook them - let alone while eating them. Not so with these. These have the added bonus of using super cheap ingredients that I usually have in my pantry anyway.


Starting with dried beans, draining them very well, and using nice toasted breadcrumbs all seem to help to make these nice, solid patties that hold up well in both cooking and eating. The cumin and cilantro and cayenne pepper make them nice and flavorful (black bean patties can often be horribly bland) and you can easily freeze the uncooked patties to pull out of the freezer for a fast and convenient meal (from this recipe I made 7 patties and froze 5 of them). The sweet potatoes are so simple it hardly seems worth writing out as a "recipe." I simply sliced into matchsticks, tossed with salt and olive oil, spread out evenly on a cookie sheet and cooked at 220 Celsius until they were done to my liking - turning once or twice while cooking. They were the perfect accompaniment to these spicy black bean burgers - and I even froze half of them to have for a quick snack later.


Spicy Black Bean Burgers
4 cups (32 oz) cooked black beans*, drained very well
1 1/2 cups whole wheat toasted bread crumbs
2 tbs mayonnaise
1 egg white
3 garlic gloves, minced or pressed
3 tbs cayenne pepper (or just to your taste...to me this makes it mildly spicy, but your mileage may vary)
2 tbs cumin powder
1 tsp dried oregano
2 or 3 tbs fresh cilantro, finely chopped
salt

In a food processor, combine a bit more than half (or up to like 2/3) of the beans with the breadcrumbs, mayo, egg white, garlic, cayenne pepper, cumin, and oregano. Pulse until it forms a thick paste (you might have to scrape down the sides a few times...the paste should be quite solid and thick).

(to make breadcrumbs - take 4 or 5 slices of good whole wheat bread, remove the crusts, chop up and pulse in a food processor or blender until medium-ish crumbs form. Toss in a tbs of olive oil and spread evenly on a cookie sheet and cook at 180c/350 f, tossing occasionally, until light golden and crispy. I learned this invaluable lesson from Alice Waters)

Mash the remaining beans with a fork or potato masher until they are in smallish chunks. Combine the paste, remaining beans, and chopped cilantro - mashing together with your hands until well combined. Form the mixture into patties (whatever size you like, I made some big some small for a total of 7 patties).

To cook, heat a heavy frying pan with a splash of olive oil over medium high heat. Cook the patties on both sides until nice and brown and crispy. Reduce heat and let cook a few more minutes until heated through. You could also cook in the oven or on the grill.

I ate them on a whole wheat English Muffin - and idea I got from a local American-owned burger joint, The Bird. I simply topped with a piece of fresh lettuce and some garlic mayonnaise. I'm sure, like a burger, they would be good with just about any condiment you can think of - salsa, some crumbled cotija cheese, a tomato slice, jalapenos, etc. I am thinking those patties I have sitting in the freezer would be great on a breakfast sandwich or with a fried egg as well.

*To prepare your dried black beans, first soak overnight. Place the dried beans in a large bowl, cover with cool water (like 3x more water than beans) and let soak for a good 12 hours at least. Drain. To cook the soaked beans, place in a large pot (wider the better) and cover with cool water, so that the water is a few inches above the beans. The beans should not get crowded. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, then reduce heat to low and simmer very very gently for around 2 hours (taste the beans after one hour, fresher beans cook faster). Keep an eye on them and add more water if it lowers to the level of the beans or below. Do not add salt until the end of the cooking time, after you have tasted and they seem good add some salt and let cook for just a few more minutes. Let completely cool in their cooking water, then use as needed. This is another invaluable lesson I learned from Alice Waters. I will usually cook at least 2 pounds of dried beans at a time and freeze in 16 oz (2 cups) containers, with their cooking liquid, to use as needed. 2 lbs usually gives me around 12 cups cooked beans, the rough equivalent of 6 cans.