Thursday, June 23, 2011
Cream of Celery Soup
Celery is a vegetable I have never particularly cared for. I will use it as a base for soups & sauces - but there is something about it I always found slightly off-putting. I know a lot of people who feel this way about tomatoes and I have always said they only feel that way because they have never had a real tomato - one straight off the vine. I realized this might be part of the reason why I don't like celery - its such a common ingredient we have gotten used to it being in the stores year round but really - like most vegetables - its in season in summer and early autumn.
So this week at the farmers market I saw fresh locally grown first-harvest celery and I have to say I barely recognized it. It was a beautiful dark green - lush and leafy and still attached to its bulbous root. I had to buy it, and decided immediately I would make this soup. See - I used to hate fennel (or anything remotely resembling anise-flavor) too. Then, my first (and last) time dining at a Michelin-star restaurant, I had a Fennel Cream soup and I had a total flavor epiphany. I think you could literally see the light bulb go on over my head and suddenly I got it. Now I finally understood the beauty and subtley of that flavor - and all the delicious places it could go (it was the best soup I have ever tasted. Really.).
So now when I see a really beautiful ingredient I tend to gravitate toward a really simple cream soup. This soup is light and fresh tasting and seems perfect for summer (it would be great for a harvest-time meal as well). The pure celery flavor (which by the way, is not at all the same as when its that white watery stuff we use during the winter) just shines and tastes so fresh and summery. With the gremolata it is over-the-top delicious - the bright crispiness of the herbs and lemon make such a perfect compliment. I do realize the irony of a creamy soup recipe directly following my post saying I'm on a diet. But here's the thing - simply leave out the cream (you can let people stir it into their own bowls if you like) and this is still a rich, satisfying and delicious soup. The cream just gives it that extra something special. That being said - about 3 cups (which I would call one main dish serving) of this is only 225 calories (but 24g fat if you are counting).
Cream of Celery Soup with Celery Leaf Gremolata
5 cups finely chopped celery
1 cup chopped celery leaf
2 medium onions, diced
2 cups diced peeled celery root (supplement with potato if your celery root isn't big enough)
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs butter
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup heavy cream
salt & pepper
Olive oil (optional)
Gremolata:
1 Tbs celery leaf, finely chopped
1 Tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbs lemon zest
1 small clove of garlic, finely minced or pressed
Heat butter in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add celery, celery leaf, and onions. Stir and cover and cook down until very soft and just barely beginning to caramelize - around 25 minutes. Stir occasionally. (This is a good time to make the gremolata)
Add celery root and garlic and stock. Stir, raise heat and bring just to a boil then cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for around 35 or 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper.
Turn off the heat and with an immersion blender blend the soup until no lumps remain. Taste and season as necessary. You can do this ahead and keep in fridge or freezer.
Stir in the cream and taste and season again if necessary. Ladle into bowls and drizzle with a nice light & fruity olive oil and top with a spoonful (or to taste) of gremolata.
Gremolata: simply combine all the ingredients and mash together in a mortar & pestle or in a small bowl with the back of a spoon.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Camembert-Dijon Cauliflower Gratin
I love Cauliflower. Like its cousin Broccoli, this is a taste I acquired in adulthood - but I have been so converted it has easily become one of my favorite vegetables. It is inexpensive and filling - I love it roasted, tossed in stir-fry - and definitely with lots of cheese. In fact, I think Cauliflower shines the brightest with cheese (what doesn't??) - and I am convinced there is not a picky eater in the world who wouldn't like it.
If you pair it with the right cheese, cauliflower is sublime. I think the flavors of Camembert and Mustard make the perfect compliment to the nutty flavor of this cruciferous gem. And creamy and cheesy gratins are the quintessential indulgent Holiday side dish. There is rarely another time during the year when I feel I can justify eating them - even if they are one of my favorite comfort foods.
I served this last year for both Thanksgiving and Christmas - along side both roasted Turkey and Prime Rib. It was devoured and praised at both tables, the recipe begged for and the bottom of the dish scraped clean. That is to say - this is really really good. I find myself craving it all year long. The flavors are just a magical combination - and when the breadcrumbs get all mixed into the thick sauce it also makes an intensely pleasing combination of textures. Take the extra few minutes to make your own breadcrumbs and it really adds that extra something.
Camembert-Dijon Cauliflower Gratin
1 large head Cauliflower, cut into small to medium sized florets
57g (about 1/4 cup) butter
1/4 cup (25g) flour
2 cups milk, heated (1 percent to whole is good, but I would not use skim)
3 large heaping Tablespoons Whole Grain dijon-style mustard
140g (1 round) of Camembert cheese with the rind removed (just slice it off)
1/4 cup grated Gran Padano cheese (Parmesan would work too)
1 Tsp Sea Salt
Breadcrumbs:
4-8 slices Whole Grain bread (depends on your size bread!), with the crusts removed
a few Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/2 tsp dried Thyme
1/2 tsp dried Oregano
Preheat the oven to 400 F / 200 C
Make the breadcrumbs first - pulse the bread in a food processor a few times until the size of small to medium bread crumbs. Then, in a bowl toss with olive oil and herbs. Spread evenly on a baking sheet and toast in oven just until dry, tossing once during cooking if needed - about 2 to 5 minutes. Remove from oven and cool. You can make these a day or two ahead and keep stored in a plastic bag.
Steam or boil in salt water the cauliflower florets until just beginning to soften. Drain and arrange in a small casserole dish (like a 2 quart Pyrex).
Make the sauce. In a small saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. As soon as its melted, add in the flour, whisking constantly.
Whisk in the hot milk and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly (it will start to thicken). Add the mustard and salt and whisk to combine.
Add the Camembert a few pieces at time, whisking until each is melted before adding more. Add the Parmesan and whisk until melted and smooth.
Remove from heat and pour immediately over the cauliflower. Top with your breadcrumbs and cook, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes. The sauce should be bubbling up the sides and the breadcrumbs a delicious golden brown.
Monday, September 6, 2010
Sundried Tomato Pesto
Another time was my first time eating real Italian food at a little restaurant in Leicester Square in London when I was about the same age. I was complaining that I didn't like pasta (like I even knew!) so the waiter brought me spegetti with pesto, insisting I would love it. He was right - it rocked my world. I will never forget that simple little plate of noodles.
Since then I have fallen in love with food. I love sun-dried tomatoes, especially during the fall and winter when fresh tomatoes and the summer seem like such a distant memory. Walnuts, red wine and balsamic vinegar make this a very rich pesto that is hearty and satisfying. Mixed with some Parmesan cheese and tossed into pasta it makes a simple but delicious and easy meal. This makes a pretty large batch that I put up in the freezer - a jar will keep for several weeks in the fridge as well.
Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto
150 grams (around 4 to 5 oz) Sun-Dried Tomatoes
chopped fresh basil (I just grab a small handful - maybe 2 tbs after its chopped)
chopped fresh oregano (ditto)
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 of an onion, chopped
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 cup red wine
black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
Soak the tomatoes in water for about an hour or until they are nice and soft, then drain and coarsely chop.
In a food processor combine everything except the olive oil. Once combined, drip in the oil while the machine is running. Season with pepper as needed (or maybe salt - many sun-dried tomatoes are salted so the salt is unnecessary).
Will keep in the fridge for several weeks (take care to always use a clean spoon and keep it covered) or for several months in the freezer. I strongly encourage mixing Parmesan cheese into it upon serving (I don't do this to begin with to extend its shelf life and to keep it vegan just in case).
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Cream of Chantarelles Soup
Last year as Autumn approached - I found myself seeking after an idyllic autumn with cool deep forests, wild mushrooms, apple picking and American football games. When I close my eyes I can almost smell the damp air and hear the red and golden leaves as they rustle in the breeze. This longing has stayed with me for the entire year. I am normally a summer girl, but all summer I have been anxiously awaiting the arrival of Fall. The temperature has dipped here in Berlin after a very hot summer and now the most beautiful time of year - the cooler later part of summer and early warmer fall - is here.
In fact, I knew it must be about that time when I started seeing large baskets of Chanterelles at the farmers market. Here in Germany they apparently love their Pfferlinge, and the season (much like Spargel - or Asparagus -season) is opened with much fanfare by local markets and restaurants. I find myself drawn to the large piles of fungus with their gorgeous golden hue, fan-like ridged appearance, and those tell-tale signs that they just made their way from the beautiful German forest - little clumps of moist black dirt, pine needles, and flecks of soft green moss.
Every year when I see them I want to do something special to highlight their unique flavor. Of course, being me, I found myself drawn to making a rich, indulgent, and creamy soup. This soup might be one of my favorites I have ever made - its practically obscene its so rich and flavorful. The flavor of the Chanterelles is everything - all the other ingredients serve to bring that to the front. Its soothing and filling - and drizzled with a nice fruity olive oil and topped with some crispy-fried chopped Chanterelles it makes not only a delicious, but a gorgeous, main dish or first course. The flavor of this soup is very simple and so greatly depends on the quality of the individual ingredients - use a flavorful stock and good quality wine and olive oil and you won't regret it.
Cream of Chanterelles Soup
500g fresh Chatarelles, cleaned and coarsely chopped
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (I also have a really nice olive oil I brought back from Nice that I only use for drizzling - this is what I used to garnish the soup)
1 cup finely chopped onion (about half a large onion)
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 Tbs flour
4 or 5 Tbs sweet Red Wine (I used a Vin d'Pays that I am rather fond of - and if I wasn't pregnant, I would have enjoyed a glass or three with the soup as well)
2 cups Chicken or Vegetable Stock
1 cup 1% milk
1 cup heavy cream
Sea Salt
Fresh ground Black Pepper
First, prepare the Chanterelles. Heat a large saute or frying pan over medium - high heat. Once its heated, add a few glugs of olive oil (so it just coats the bottom of the pan). Saute the Chanterelles in small batches (a large handful at a time - so they saute and don't steam - and seasoning each batch with a pinch of salt) until soft and browned. Remove each batch with a slotted spoon to a plate or bowl and set aside. On the last batch, deglaze the pan with just a small splash of red wine, scraping up all the brown bits and reserving with the rest of the chanterelles.
Reserve a small amount of the cooked Chanterelles (like a 1/4 to 1/2 cup) to use as a garnish - its nice to fry these a bit more as well, until nice and carmelized and a tad bit crunchy.
Heat a large cast iron pot or stock pot over medium heat. Add a glug of olive oil then the chopped onions and a pinch of salt. Saute until soft and translucent and just beginning to brown around the edges - around 10 minutes. Add the minced garlic and saute another minute more. Add the cooked Chanterelles and stir to combine.
Stir in the flour so that it coats all the veggies, then add the Red Wine. Stir vigorously and scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan ( it will kind of become a bit of a goopy mess at this point).
Add the Stock and stir to combine. Bring just to the boil, then reduce heat and let gently simmer, covered, for at least 10 minutes. Stir in the milk and cream and taste - add salt and pepper as needed. Let cook, uncovered, over low heat (just below a simmer) for another 5 to 10 minutes - stirring frequently. Taste again and season as necessary.
Remove soup from heat and let cool for a few minutes, then with an immersion blender, blend until smooth and thickened (you can use a regular blender, but take care not to burn yourself). Taste again as sometimes once the soup is blended the flavors are slightly different.
Ladle into individual bowls and drizzle with olive oil and garnish with the fried Chanterelles.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Summer Minestrone Soup
I LOVE this time of year - late summer, as the temperatures drop and autumn fast approaches. Everything is beautifully green in Berlin, there are breezy, sunny days mixed in with gray rainy ones - and the farmers market is still brimming with all that summer harvest. Its the best of both worlds. Its also a great time to make soup.
I am a big fan of soup for a lot of reasons - its usually inexpensive, it freezes well, makes great lunches later on (either for yourself or to put in a thermos for kiddos), and it (usually) doesn't dirty a lot of dishes or require hours and hours of slaving away (in others words, its easy). Its also the most comforting, soothing thing I can think of - no matter what the season.
For almost my entire life, my only exposure to Minestrone soup, however, had been from those infamous red and white cans. No disrespect, but that stuff is just plain awful - and as a result I had gone most of my life thinking I hated Minestrone soup. Oh how wrong I was. Minestrone, it turns out, its probably one of my favoritist things ever. It combines some my favorite things (veggies, beans, pasta) into one of my favorite dishes (soup). Its easily adapted for any season and it makes a hearty, filling and super healthy meal. This particular Minestrone has skyrocketed to the top of my all-time-favorite soups list - the broth is intensely flavored, earthy from the beans (and their cooking liquid), but also a bit sweet from the leeks and zucchini. Its a perfect meal for a rainy late August or early September day.
Summer Minestrone Soup
(adapted from Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food)
225g dried beans (like Borlotti or Cannellini - I used a kind that were labeled Marmor beans and that I had honestly never seen before. They worked wonderfully) - this yields around 675g (3 cups) cooked beans.
Olive Oil
1 large onion, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 1/2 tsp dried thyme (or 5 stalks fresh)
1 bay leaf
2 tsp salt
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup water
1 small leek, diced
2 medium Zucchini, diced (roughly 3 cups diced)
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 cup frozen chopped spinach (or of course fresh if you have it - I keep frozen on hand all the time so I prefer not to buy something new)
225ml (1 cup) bean cooking liquid (or more if necessary)
1 or 2 cups cooked pasta (I used an artisan over-sized macaroni to provide a contrast to all the small veggies - I loved it. However, anything from vermicelli to penne to regular macaroni would taste great).
First, prepare your beans (this is something I have usually done days before and keep on hand in the fridge or freezer). It is an important step in this soup however, because much of the amazing, unique flavor from this soup comes from using the bean cooking liquid.
Soak the beans overnight and drain. Put in a large stockpot or dutch oven with plenty of water (at least a few inches over the level of the beans). Add a bay leaf and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam, then reduce heat to a low simmer and cook for 1 to 4 hours depending on your beans (I usually find I need at least 3 hours). Just taste the beans to know when they are done. Add salt at the very end and let cook for a few minutes more. Make sure to let beans cool in their liquid or their skins will peel off (if you are storing them, also store them in their cooking liquid). Be sure to reserve a few cups of the cooking liquid for use in the soup (though I found the amount I stored the 3 cups of beans in to be just about the right amount).
In a heavy bottomed stock pot or french cast iron pot (my preference for making soup) heat a few Tbs olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and carrots and cook for 15 minutes or until tender.
Add the minced garlic, thyme, bay leaf and salt. Stir and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the chicken or vegetable stock and water, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat back to medium, then add the leek and let cook, covered, for another 5 minutes or so.
Add the zucchini, tomatoes and spinach and cook (again, covered or I found I lost too much of the broth) for 15 minutes. Add the cooked beans and bean cooking liquid. Taste and season with salt if necessary. Cover again and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes. If the soup is seeming a bit crowded/thick, add more water or bean cooking liquid to your taste (if its the opposite uncover and let simmer for a few minutes to boil-off some of the liquid). Add the cooked pasta, let cook for just another minute or two and ladle into bowls to serve. You could garnish with Parmesan cheese or croutons but I found it to be filling and perfect just on its own as well.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Easy Corn Chowder
Normally I am not such a wimp about the heat - I grew up in Houston, Texas for crying out loud and survived two years of life in Phoenix, Arizona and four months in India with the heat generally not making me want to kill myself. In fact, I used to kinda like the heat. It was different this time though, cause I'm pregnant. Which is another reason I didn't cook a damn thing all month. Because really, with blinding nausea and an aversion to seemingly all food, all I wanted to eat was cold cereal and peaches with plain yogurt.
However, sanity has been restored to the universe. The beautiful Berlin summer is here - blue skies with the occasional rain and temps more around 78 - and my pregnancy symptoms are starting to fade. So now I can actually enjoy some of the beautiful summer food I have been seeing all over the place - like Corn. I re-entered the kitchen with a super quick and easy soup (take that heat! soup!) which I had been craving like nobody's business. Decent fresh corn is not as readily available in Berlin as it is in the States (you can find it, but I couldn't on the day that I decided I must have this soup)...so I had to use canned. But no matter - you should use fresh sweet corn from the cob and your soup will be all the better for it - but in the meantime know that this is a great recipe that can be made year round with canned or frozen corn as well. Its cheap and quick and filling and makes a great late summer meal.
Simple Corn Chowder
1 small onion, minced
1 yellow bell pepper, diced
2 medium stalks celery, diced
about 4 cups corn kernels - either fresh, frozen, or canned
2 1/2 cups 1% milk
2 slices bacon (or more if you really feel like it - you could do a slice per serving. this recipe probably makes 4 to 6 servings depending on how big you make them)
1 1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
sea salt and fresh ground pepper
In a blend, blend half of the corn and 1 cup of the milk until smooth. Set aside.
In the bottom of a large dutch oven, cook the bacon until crispy. Remove and set aside.
Add the diced onion, pepper and celery. Add a bit of salt. Cook over medium-low heat until the onions are translucent and the veggies are all soft. Add the rest of the corn and cook for another couple of minutes.
Add the blended corn mixture and the rest of the milk. Slowly stir in the shredded cheese until all combined. Taste and add salt and pepper to your taste.
You can either serve it as is - thick and chunky or you can blend it to your preferred consistency with an immersion blender. I blended it just a tad once it was all done, but still left it fairly chunky and thought that combined all the flavors really well (especially the celery).
Crumble the cooked bacon over each bowl and enjoy :)
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Steamed Artichokes with Garlic & Lemon Butter
Artichokes are complex, withholding, and stubborn vegetables. And yet...they are also beautiful, delicate and delectable. One of the greatest pleasures of one of the most pleasurable seasons is enjoying a steamed whole artichoke, leaf by leaf, slowly making your way to the soft, silky heart. Dipping each bit in a garlicky lemon butter and pairing with a glass of Provençal Rose outside on the terrace as the sun sits low in the sky, and you will have experienced the sublime.
The simple joy of a whole steamed fresh artichoke is something I had never experienced until my mid-twenties. Growing up in a mixture of the midwestern United States and Scandinavia, they weren't exactly readily available. My husband however, grew up in the mediterrean-like climate of California and has fond childhood memories of scraping mayonnaise-dipped artichoke flesh off spiny green leaves until unearthing the heart like a hidden treasure.
The first time I took a few irresistible artichokes home for the market I set them on my counter and wondered what on earth I was going to do with them. I had enjoyed artichokes hearts so many times in so many ways, but looking at this spiky green and violet cone I had no idea how to get to it. While it does take a slight bit of preparation - its really quite simple. Steamed artichokes can make the ideal appetizer at a dinner party, slowly shared around a large table while the main dish finishes cooking, they are simple and can be prepared and served with relatively little fuss. We had ours as the accompaniment to some simple grilled chicken, enjoying them on the patio with some wine while the chicken smoked on the grill.
Steamed Artichokes with Garlic & Lemon Butter
3 to 8 medium to larg-ish whole fresh artichokes
120 grams butter (like one stick in the US)
3 large cloves garlic, pressed or minced and crushed
300 ml fresh lemon juice (like one lemon)
a few sprigs fresh thyme
Prepare the artichokes: Cut the stems about 1/2 inch from the base of the choke and slice off the top of the choke (about 1 inch). Remove the most outer dark leaves. With a pair of kitchen shears, trim the prickly tip from each leaf. Rub lemon on the cut edges to keep them from browning.
To cook the artichokes: place in a steamer basket over lightly boiling water and steam for 30 to 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can place directly in the water. They will bob up on the top of the water, so they will kind of half boil/half steam. Remove the artichokes and place upside-down on a kitchen towel to drain while they cool.
While the artichokes are steaming, prepare your dipping sauce. Place butter in a small saucepan over med-low heat. Add the garlic and the whole thyme sprigs after its mostly melted and slowly cook the garlic. Let cook this way for a few minutes, until the garlic and thyme become quite pungent (don't let it get to hot or the garlic will burn). Remove the thyme and whisk in the lemon juice. Let cook another minute or two. Remove from heat but keep warm until serving. This sauce is probably enough for 4 to 6 people to share.
To eat the artichokes, pull each leaf off, dip it in the sauce then scrape/suck/bite off the tender green part of the leaf at the bottom . As you get further in, each leaf will have a bit more of the heart on it. When you get to the heart in the center, simply cut off the fuzzy stuff on top of it (you can remove this before cooking if you want as well) and eat the rest (remaining stem included).
Thursday, April 22, 2010
Asparagus Soup
Asparagus season seems so short and fleeting that I rarely do anything with asparagus other than roast it in olive oil or grill it. Both of those are delicious, sure, but I was getting a bit bored of the same old thing. Not to mention I kinda got excited when I saw the asparagus at the store and may have bought a little too much of it.
I had intentions of making this a fancy white asparagus soup, and drizzling some fancy herb-infused olive oil over it that I brought back from Nice. The thing is, I didn't have enough white asparagus and why go buy more asparagus when I have like 3 more lbs of the green stuff sitting in the fridge? I have always wanted to make asparagus soup and I am so glad I did. It has a subtle, delicate asparagus flavor and is the prettiest shade of spring green. I wanted to eat the sauteed asparagus tips I made for the garnish like popcorn too.
Truly this soup was delicious. It tastes great with some whole grain bread and as I was eating it I couldn't help but think how tasty a scoop of brown rice or maybe even bulgur would be stirred into it as well. It freezes and refrigerates really well - in fact it might be even better the next day. Its great for lunch, a small simple dinner, or would make a lovely first course at one of those fancy sit-down dinner parties (you know, the kind I have never had).
Asparagus Soup
based loosely on Alice Waters' recipe in Chez Panisse Vegetables
500g (1 bunch or 1 lb) White Asparagus, peeled and chopped
500g Green Asparagus, chopped reserving all of the tops
1 HUGE Leek (or 2 normal ones), chopped
1 large yellow onion, chopped (all told I had about 3 1/2 or 4 cups chopped leek & onion)
2 potatoes, peeled and diced (medium-ish ones will do)
a few sprigs thyme (or a tsp or two dried)
bay leaf
olive oil
5 cups vegetable or chicken stock (in actual fact I used turkey stock and that was good too)
water (as needed)
salt and pepper
In a medium saucepan heat the stock to a low simmer, add the bay leaf and thyme sprigs and chopped asparagus and simmer for 15 minutes or just until the asparagus is getting soft.
Meanwhile, in a large stockpot stew the leek, onion, and potato in a few Tbs olive oil and a bit of water until the veggies are very soft. (you know I was thinking, garlic wouldn't be bad in this either, I might try that next time)
Add the broth and asparagus and simmer all together (uncovered) for about 10 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Blend with an immersion blender until smooth. Allow to sit (the soup thickens and flavor intensifies as it cools) for 20 minutes or so before serving.
In a small frying pan heat some olive oil over medium heat. Add the green asparagus tips and saute until they begin to turn a golden brown. Remove from heat immediately. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with the asparagus tips.
Monday, April 12, 2010
Provence & Côte d'Azur
I have mentioned a few times on this blog that I have had a preoccupation with Provence lately. I have been drawn to it in a way I cannot fight against - like some inevitable cosmic force was drawing me to it. I know I am not the first to be romantically swept away by this region, but I certainly never thought I would actually find myself on vacation there any time soon.
And yet that is exactly where I found myself last week. I somehow found myself in hotel room in Nice overlooking the aquamarine water of the Baie des Anglais charting out all the places we had to eat over the next few days. It was...amazing.
It was Olive Tapinade, Rosé Wine (be still my heart), fresh Goat Cheese (that may have actually brought tears to my eyes), and absolutely perfectly cooked Scallops with shaved truffles that there is no pictorial evidence of because I could not wait one second to devour them (nor will I ever forget the way they absolutely melted in my mouth. Melted I tell you).
I always say I am new to this whole "foodie" thing - and so the idea of Provence as food mecca is pretty new to me as well. I knew it was the land of truffles and lavender, but I had no idea it was also the land of fresh seafood, perfectly light and fruity olive oil, and candied fruits.
We ate everywhere from street stands (Socca & Rotisserie Chicken) to Michelin-rated fancy restaurants (Chateau Eza) to hip new joints across the street from the Cannes' Palais des Festivals (Mocca), to cute little bakeries with deliciously simple breakfasts.
I think the highlight of my whole trip was wandering through the market at Cours Saleya in Nice. I have never seen such exquisite fruits and veggies in my life. Next time I visit there, I will have to rent someplace with a kitchen so I can enjoy all those gorgeous fresh fruits and vegetables.
I have been very tired of cooking lately (as you can see by the lack of posts for an entire month)- and this trip gave me just the jolt of inspiration that I needed. It reminded me why food (and cooking it) can be so amazing and what drew me to it in the first place.
I cannot wait to go back and explore more - St.Tropez! Marseilles! - not to mention the beautiful countryside and majestic mountains....sigh...why do I have to return to reality?
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Black Bean Burgers & Sweet Potato Fries
The goals of simplifying your life and being more healthy can sometimes seem to be at odds with each other. Making more stuff from scratch, eating more balanced meals, eating less meat....can all seem, at first, to make life infinitely more complicated. I am finding however, that once some of these things (like soaking and cooking beans, making stock, and chopping vegetables) become habit and incorporated into my daily routine - they really don't take any extra time or effort. They even become little tasks I look forward to in the middle of all the mundane ones.
I am also figuring out recipes that both simplify my day and are more healthy. I happen to love vegetarian 'burgers', and used to buy those pre-made vegetable patties from the freezer section all the time back in the States. They were ok, but always left me a little dissatisfied. I have attempted making plenty of different homemade versions - but they always seem too soft or too crumbly and simply fall apart when you try to cook them - let alone while eating them. Not so with these. These have the added bonus of using super cheap ingredients that I usually have in my pantry anyway.

Starting with dried beans, draining them very well, and using nice toasted breadcrumbs all seem to help to make these nice, solid patties that hold up well in both cooking and eating. The cumin and cilantro and cayenne pepper make them nice and flavorful (black bean patties can often be horribly bland) and you can easily freeze the uncooked patties to pull out of the freezer for a fast and convenient meal (from this recipe I made 7 patties and froze 5 of them). The sweet potatoes are so simple it hardly seems worth writing out as a "recipe." I simply sliced into matchsticks, tossed with salt and olive oil, spread out evenly on a cookie sheet and cooked at 220 Celsius until they were done to my liking - turning once or twice while cooking. They were the perfect accompaniment to these spicy black bean burgers - and I even froze half of them to have for a quick snack later.
Spicy Black Bean Burgers
4 cups (32 oz) cooked black beans*, drained very well
1 1/2 cups whole wheat toasted bread crumbs
2 tbs mayonnaise
1 egg white
3 garlic gloves, minced or pressed
3 tbs cayenne pepper (or just to your taste...to me this makes it mildly spicy, but your mileage may vary)
2 tbs cumin powder
1 tsp dried oregano
2 or 3 tbs fresh cilantro, finely chopped
salt
In a food processor, combine a bit more than half (or up to like 2/3) of the beans with the breadcrumbs, mayo, egg white, garlic, cayenne pepper, cumin, and oregano. Pulse until it forms a thick paste (you might have to scrape down the sides a few times...the paste should be quite solid and thick).
(to make breadcrumbs - take 4 or 5 slices of good whole wheat bread, remove the crusts, chop up and pulse in a food processor or blender until medium-ish crumbs form. Toss in a tbs of olive oil and spread evenly on a cookie sheet and cook at 180c/350 f, tossing occasionally, until light golden and crispy. I learned this invaluable lesson from Alice Waters)
Mash the remaining beans with a fork or potato masher until they are in smallish chunks. Combine the paste, remaining beans, and chopped cilantro - mashing together with your hands until well combined. Form the mixture into patties (whatever size you like, I made some big some small for a total of 7 patties).
To cook, heat a heavy frying pan with a splash of olive oil over medium high heat. Cook the patties on both sides until nice and brown and crispy. Reduce heat and let cook a few more minutes until heated through. You could also cook in the oven or on the grill.
I ate them on a whole wheat English Muffin - and idea I got from a local American-owned burger joint, The Bird. I simply topped with a piece of fresh lettuce and some garlic mayonnaise. I'm sure, like a burger, they would be good with just about any condiment you can think of - salsa, some crumbled cotija cheese, a tomato slice, jalapenos, etc. I am thinking those patties I have sitting in the freezer would be great on a breakfast sandwich or with a fried egg as well.
*To prepare your dried black beans, first soak overnight. Place the dried beans in a large bowl, cover with cool water (like 3x more water than beans) and let soak for a good 12 hours at least. Drain. To cook the soaked beans, place in a large pot (wider the better) and cover with cool water, so that the water is a few inches above the beans. The beans should not get crowded. Bring to a boil, skim off the foam, then reduce heat to low and simmer very very gently for around 2 hours (taste the beans after one hour, fresher beans cook faster). Keep an eye on them and add more water if it lowers to the level of the beans or below. Do not add salt until the end of the cooking time, after you have tasted and they seem good add some salt and let cook for just a few more minutes. Let completely cool in their cooking water, then use as needed. This is another invaluable lesson I learned from Alice Waters. I will usually cook at least 2 pounds of dried beans at a time and freeze in 16 oz (2 cups) containers, with their cooking liquid, to use as needed. 2 lbs usually gives me around 12 cups cooked beans, the rough equivalent of 6 cans.
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Homemade Vegetable Stock
If you spend a few minutes looking around this blog, you might notice I make a lot of soup. Not only that, it seems like every recipe I make - be it soup or rice pilaf or you name it - requires chicken or veggie stock. This week, as I am planning my Thanksgiving preparations I realized I will probably need stock for just about everything I plan on making.
In the US, it never even occurred to me that I could make my own - it was just too easy to pick some up at the store (regardless of the extra cost) and I never really put any thought into the benefits of making my own - or the harm in buying it pre-made. Pre-made stock here is rare and expensive in Germany, so when I moved here I really had little choice but to figure out how to make it myself. Turns out, making stock at home is ridiculously simple and easy. I struggled the first few times I made it - it would be bland or watery - but I finally figured out exactly what works best.
Making your own stock means you get to control what goes in it - the types of vegetables and seasonings as well as the amount of sodium and fat. I have almost always preferred to use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock because it is lower fat, lower sodium and doesn't require consumption of an animal that is already grotesquely over-consumed. This broth is completely fat free and can be totally sodium free as well, if you choose (I chose to just add about one teaspoon of salt to the whole pot). It packs a ton of strong roasted veggie flavor - just like the stuff I used to buy at the store - and it cost me roughly 3 euros for eight whole cups of stock. Um, hello I used to pay 4 bucks for half that amount!!Homemade Vegetable Stock
12 cups water
about 2 tsp fresh ground black pepper
1 red bell pepper
1 kilo carrots, chopped and not peeled
1 large yellow onion, quartered
1 large purple onion, quartered
1 lb/large bunch celery, coarse chopped (leaving the tight little leaves on)
5 or 6 cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half
2 bay leaves
pinch mustard seeds
salt
Put all the cut up vegetables (I don't roast the garlic, but that is up to you) in a roasting pan and roast in the oven for about 30 minutes at 400 F/200 C - until carrots just start to caramelize and peppers are just starting to get black spots (you don't want them overly charred, just barely roasted).
Remove from oven and transfer to a large stock pot. Add the garlic, black pepper, bay leaves and mustard seeds and a pinch or too of salt (optional).
Cover with the water then put the lid on the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and allow to boil/simmer for around one to one and half hours.
Strain through a fine-mesh strainer (or through cheesecloth if you want a really clean stock). At this point I will reserve the carrots to use in dog food (taking care there are no onions mixed in with them)(I can't stand letting any food go to waste). Let it cool and transfer to containers to freeze - I generally will freeze in one cup increments in small plastic containers, though sometimes I will do 3 or 4 cups in one since this is a good amount to defrost for soup. Make sure and label it, 5 months from now you might not remember what it is (though mine never lasts that long).
This recipe yielded me 8 cups of good strong vegetable stock.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Coloroful Quinoa Salad
I don't how it took me so long, but I just discovered Quinoa, and it is awesome. If you aren't already acquainted, please allow me introduce you to this beautiful little seed which dates back to Pre-Colombian Andean civilization. Now, I am not an expert in nutrition (want one? Check out the Whole Food Whole Family blog), but this little seed is a super source of complete protein, high in fiber, high in iron - all things we humans really need.
Not only is Quinoa super good for you, it tastes amazing. I love the texture. You can use it as a replacement for rice, couscous and other grains (it is Gluten Free) and its super fast and easy to make.
This dish isn't just healthy because of the Quinoa either. I had all these beautiful violet and yellow carrots I got at the market (which for some crazy but awesome reason were only 1 euro for about 2 kilos worth), some left over zucchini, and tomatoes sitting in my fridge. Combining them all in this salad makes it a powerhouse of vitamins and other nutrients.
Did you know that the cultivated carrots original color is Purple? They date back to the 900s in Afghanistan. Wild carrots are even more ancient - with seeds up to 10 thousand years old having been found. I love ancient food! This dish brings together all these super healthy and ancient foods in a beautiful colorful dish. It would make a great side dish, but we ate it as our whole meal and it was delicious and filling - and did I mention colorful? Everything turns a pinkish-purple color, combined with the greens and reds from all the veggies. I loved it!Colorful Quinoa Salad
1 cup Quinoa
1 cup vegetable broth
1 cup water
2-4 tbs lemon juice
1-2 tsp lemon zest
2 tbs chopped fresh basil
1 tsp fresh thyme
3 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
4 carrots (2 purple, 2 yellow or any mix of colors you can get your hands on), sliced into rounds
1 or 2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 cup chopped zuchhini (like half a normal sized zucchini)
1/2 cup chopped onion (about 1/4 of a large onion)
2 tbs tomato paste
1/4 cup white wine
olive oil
salt & pepper
First, drain the water out of your zucchini. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with salt. Let sit for 20 minutes or so, then pour off the excess water and pat dry.
In a medium saucepan, heat a bit of olive oil over medium heat. Add 2 cloves garlic, lemon zest and a pinch or two of salt. Saute garlic until fragrant and soft, but not yet browning. Just about one minute. Add 1 tbs of basil and cook for another 30 seconds to a minute. Add in the vegetable broth and water and bring to a boil. When it reaches a boil, add the Quinoa and 1 tbs lemon juice and give it a stir. Bring liquid back to a simmer, then reduce heat, cover and allow to cook until Quinoa has absorbed all of the liquid. Set aside.
In a large skillet, heat around 2 tbs olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and carrots and give it a stir. Cover and let cook for around 3 or 4 minutes. Uncover and stir. Add zuchinni and tomato and garlic. Let saute for another 10 minutes or so, until veggies have all gotten nice and soft and maybe just browning. Raise heat slightly and add herbs and let saute another minute or two, until it starts to brown. Add the white wine and cook until it reduces down. Add tomato paste and stir to combine it all together. Stir in Quinoa.
Remove from heat and enjoy :)
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Ratatouille
I have been dreaming - obsessing - over Provence lately. I have been researching the price of vacation cottages, looking at plane tickets. I mean, I live in Germany...its not that far right? What was that about a budget again? Oh right. See, summer is ending; Christmas is looming menacingly on the horizon; we just went through a big move (make that 2 big moves in the past year); we have already taken 2 vacations this year and have another coming up in November (Istanbul!!)...um, yeah. I think my wistful holiday picking lavender and drinking wine in Provence is going to have to be put on hold for now (insert eye roll directed at myself here).
But that doesn't mean I can't have a little taste of it right here at home. The markets are full of dirt cheap Zucchini, Eggplant and tomatoes that are sure to disappear in the coming weeks. Eating on a (extremely tight) budget means I like dishes that use those inexpensive in-season veggies, makes a ton, and is delicious to eat as leftovers. Ratatouille is the perfect dish.
This is a dish that requires a bit of prep. I mean, normally when a recipe tells me to do something as silly as peel the eggplant I laugh and say "no thanks". However, this was my first time making this classic so I did (almost) exactly as I was told and I do not regret it at all. It is delicious, rich, smooth and will make lovers out of any vegetable hater you serve it too. Promise. Its really a very simple dish, all the slicing and basting aside, and the flavor of all the vegetables come together in a way that is simply sublime. Oh, and guess how much this cost? Just guess. A whopping 3 euros.
I found this to be a very forgiving and flexible recipe. You can make several hours or a day ahead, and while its fun to get everything just right - if you slice the veggies different, or under cook the zucchini (like I did) - well, it still tastes just as good (no food snobbery around here). Now that I have made it once, I will have fun playing with different ingredients and flavors as I try this again and again (oh, yes, this will be eaten many more times at this house).
We enjoyed plain as a main course with a glass of wine and some nice music on the patio while fantasizing about our vacation in the South of France; but I can imagine cooking this up on a Saturday afternoon with the fam, watching the Pixar classic by the same name, and eating with some roast lamb, or even tossed in couscous, pasta or eaten cold on sandwiches.Ratatouille
based on this recipe by Julia Child
1/2 pound eggplant
1/2 pound zucchini, trimmed
salt/pepper
Olive oil
1 8-ounce onion, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
2 green bell peppers, thinly sliced into strips
3 garlic cloves, pressed
1 pound firm but ripe tomatoes, seeded, cut into thick strips
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
3 tablespoons minced fresh basil
1 or 2 tablespoons thyme
Peel eggplant; cut lengthwise into slices, then cut into 3-inch-long, 1-inch-wide strips. Cut zucchini into same size strips. Place vegetables in a separate bowl or colander; sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt. Let stand 30 minutes. Drain; dry with paper towels.
Preheat oven to 425 F / 204 C. In a small shallow pan, toss eggplant with a bit of olive oil and roast in oven until starting to brown - around 10 minutes. Meanwhile, working in batches, add zucchini to a heated skillet with olive oil; sauté until light golden, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to plate; reserve.
Add a bit more oil to skillet; heat over medium heat. Add onion and peppers; sauté until just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in garlic. Season with salt and pepper.
Place tomato strips atop onion-pepper mixture in skillet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover skillet; cook over low heat until tomatoes begin to juice, about 5 minutes. Uncover; baste vegetables in skillet with juices. Boil until juices are almost evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer 1/3 of onion-pepper-tomato mixture to 2 1/2-quart pot; sprinkle with a bit of the parsley, basil and thyme. Top with half of eggplant and half of zucchini, then remaining onion-pepper-tomato mixture; sprinkle with herbs. Layer remaining eggplant and zucchini over; sprinkle with a bit more of the herbs. Cover; simmer over low heat 10 minutes.
Uncover; tilt pot and baste with accumulated juices. Pour a bit of red wine over the whole pot (not too much - a glug or two). Increase heat to medium; simmer uncovered, basting several times with pan juices until only 2 to 3 tablespoons juices remain in pot, watching closely to avoid scorching, anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes longer (I had a lot of juice and this phase took awhile). Season with salt and pepper.






















